This Cool Casting Trick Helped Me Catch A Fish Of A Lifetime [“Dart Cast”]

By: Luke Simonds on February 1, 2018
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dart cast

Casting technique is an extremely important aspect of fishing that often gets completely overlooked.

Just think about how much attention goes towards a golfer’s swing in the golfing industry… there are even countless items that golfers buy simply to help them have a more effective swing.

Most fishermen believe that once they know the basic mechanics, that’s all they need to know.

But that simply is not true… and I can say that because I know from experience.

I fished for many years before I ever put much thought into my casting technique.

The first time I had to was when I got serious about learning how to cast out my entire fly line when flyfishing.

And then I realized that the science behind maximizing casting distance in flyfishing by utilizing the rod’s ability to store and unleash power can be applied to spinning tackle too.

dart cast rod

And the resulting casting technique that I’ve since used for spinning tackle has enabled me to do the following:

  1. Cast Further
  2. Increase Accuracy
  3. Expend Less Effort

So I put the video below together so that you can see how it in action and also learn the physics behind why it works.

The “Dart Cast”

As you’ll see in the video below, this unique casting technique will enable you to maximize your accuracy while increasing the distance in casts with minimal effort.

We call this cast the “Dart Cast” because its core benefit is that it allows your forward motion to be just like what a dart thrower does to achieve maximum accuracy and precision.

Watch the video below because it shows it in action with a fish of a lifetime catch in addition to some very helpful slow-motion footage analysis that will help you see exactly how this cast works.

CLICK HERE to learn more about our “Casting Mastery” tutorials

Conclusion

Given how important casting truly is for fishermen who want to maximize their fish catching, we much always be mindful to make any needed adjustments in our casts.

Even if the adjustments result in just 10 extra feet of casting distance, that equates to an entire football field of added strike zone coverage every 30 casts.

And best of all, that extra football field of distance is typically the best strike zone area due to it being farthest away from you were the fish are much less likely to have any idea that danger is in the area.

So if you are serious about making sure that you’re maximizing the following in your casts:

  1. Max Distance
  2. Max Control
  3. Max Efficiency (Less Effort)

Then take advantage of our casting challenge offer [learn more].

I highly recommend giving it a shot because you simply do not know when your fish catch of a lifetime opportunity like the snook from the 3rd-floor balcony will come.

It’s of course best to be prepared so that you don’t miss out on a great catch.

Any questions?

Let us know in the comments.

Fish On!

P.S. – If you think your angler friends or fishing networks would like to see this, please Tag them or Share this with them. You Rock! Pa-POW!

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Mike CulpepperLuke SimondsBob KueblerJimBrian Keith Stolley Recent comment authors
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Mike Culpepper
Member

Very cool to see it in slo-mo. I’ve guess I’ve been using this type of cast all my life and never knew it had a name! Well, I’ve used it on artificials…….I throw too many $$ shrimp off to use this cast with live bait. I don’t think you can be anywhere near accurate if you use a more sweeping type cast. Also , I’m not sure if you mention it in the video, but I think there is a “sweet spot” that varies with what type of artificial you are using, as well as rod, when it comes to how far your lure is from the rod tip, before the cast. Too far from rod tip you lose distance, same for too close. I have to play around with a given lure to find the right distance from the rod tip to maximize distance and accuracy.
One technique I WILL need to practice is the skip cast.

Bob Kuebler
Member

Luke,
Recently I bought a Shimano Stradic. I would like to know the difference between it and the Ci. I’m not happy with the bad experience I am having due to my personal grip on the rod and reel. I hold the reel handle between my little and ring finger. What I’m finding is the tightness of the angle around my little finger due to the design of the reel is causing me a lot of pain half way thru the days fishing.This is causing me to have to modify my grip to put all fingers together above the reel handle which is causing an inaccuracy in my casts due to the way the line is held too high above the spool. I’ve lost the receipt so this reel is mine forever. I’m real pleased with he drag system–its unlike anything I have ever experienced. How many pounds is it with the 3000 ? Any ideas you can share to alleviate my pain would eb appreciated. Thanks, BobKuebler

Jim
Guest
Jim

Good concept. This is similar to fly casting where careful timing of the forward cast is needed to use the energy stored in the rod during the back cast. I had not thought about spin casts in that way. Duh!

Brian Stolley
Member

Great tip! Especially for a guy who fishes the skinny water amongst the grasses, flats and mangroves of Tampa Bay. I went out on my dock and soon made ‘right on’ casts anywhere I wanted them. Always thought I was a good caster but I reckon I never put much thought into what I was doing. One more example of how Salt Strong has made me a better fisherman. Thanks!

Scott Rispaud
Member

Great video Luke. Rod loading is the key to distance which is why I tell people to be careful about buying used rods. It may look great but rods get tired and no longer have the casting and fighting characteristics when they were new. When I go north for Striper season, 100’s of “loaded” casts per day and my 10-11 ft surf rods get tired. I utilize the physics and mechanics of the rod and let fly. You nailed it! I basically use my reel hand as a folcrom with the majority of pressure coming from the rod butt hand to create the “Snap” as it loads. Same technique applies at home for inshore. Thanks again for sharing.

Charlie Barnes
Member

Luke I noticed that you switch hand positions when you cast, in other words move your right hand to the butt of the rod and your left hand above the reel, and after the cast return to a right hand control of the rod. Is it important to have this “grip” instead of left hand on the butt?

Skip Shineman
Member

What are you doing with your “trigger finger?” Are you pinching the line to the rod during the takeaway and timing the release?

Marko Rodriguez
Member

Great video and casting technique! It really does increase accuracy and distance. I learned myself a year ago. I found fast action rods are great for lures. What do you guys think about live bait? Would a slower cast or slow / medium action rod combination be better for distance? I’ve lost a few live baits using this technique 😀

Anonymous
Guest
Anonymous

Great tutorial. See many fisherman using the trebuchet method putting the lure directly behind then catapult it forward with little loading of the rod. I can only use baitcasters for physical reasons but I attempt to load the rod while casting with one hand.

Russ Scholl
Member

Really important tutorial. Great mechanics Luke.

Spud Lowdermilk
Member

Luke thanks for the lesson casting . I thought I was decent casting but today I tried you technique and found I could pick up an extra 10 to 15 feet from my normal cast . Keep up the good work.

Gary Rankel
Member

Hey Luke……..lots of bend in that rod. Must be a medium or slow action type. Don’t you normally use a fast or extra fast action rod for most of your inshore fishing where only the top third or so of the rod flexes?

Raymond Matuszak
Member

Hello Luke, I have your casting tutorial. And am practicing using the TFO rod you like with a 1/8 oz weighted hook and soft plastic
. I am getting a lot of wind knots, no wind today?
Secondly on side arm casts from my right side the lure goes to the left of target often.
Suggestions?

Ken P
Guest
Ken P

Will this work with heavier/stiffer rods (“jig sticks”), i.e. 30-50#. I’m not sure how much they will “load” with a 6-8oz iron. Thinking about for yellowtail, etc. out here in the Pacific. I can definitely see how it works with a lighter, more flexible rod.