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The Best Fishing Knots Of All Time [Ranked Strongest To Weakest]
By: Luke Simonds on May 13, 2018
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Fishing Knots • Fishing Tips
It’s fishing knot time!
Do you want to know something that might shock you about fishing knots?
After testing hundreds of fishing knots over the past couple of years, I’ve learned one very important lesson…
The “100% fishing knot” is a myth.
Why?
Physics.
Yes, simple physics is the reason why a knot will always create a weak point on the line given that it creates a point on the line where a max load is hitting it from two different directions.
So step #1 in using the strongest possible knots for your fishing needs is to understand that there is no such thing as a 100% knot…
And if you hear someone say that their knot is 100%, then they likely have never tested it out in a controlled test so be wary of their recommendation.
Because here’s the hard truth…
Your favorite fishing knot is weak, and so is mine…
This is simply due to the fact the contorting line and creating hard turns that get put under tension will always create a weak point in the line making it the weakest point in the system (assuming that the main line is not compromised).
Note: This weak point is almost always at the first hard turn in the top section of the knot coming from the main line, so it most often leaves a clean break which looks like the mainline simply snapped when an angler examines the line after a break-off.
Now that we’re past the first hurdle (acceptance), step #2 is to actually test our knots to make sure that you don’t lose the fish of a lifetime due using a knot that isn’t the absolute best for each connection in your line system.
To help save you time in testing knots, I’ll be displaying results from my continued testing on this page.
Best of all, the individual fishing knots will be ranked based on their strength & performance results for the following knot connection categories:
Knot Category Groupings
Feel free to use the links below to skip down to the knot connection that you’re most interested in. Otherwise, you can simply scroll down to see all of the knots.
And if you don’t see your favorite knot listed, just leave a comment on the bottom of this post (click here) and I’ll add it to my list of fishing knots to evaluate.
So let’s get started…
Definition of Bad, Good, & Great Fishing Knots
Before going on the knot strength results, it is essential that we first all understand the different categories of knots in terms of their strength:
- Bad Knot: unravels/slips when under heavy tension
- Good Knot: does not unravel or slip (it breaks before unraveling)
- Great Knot: does not unravel/slip and has a higher breaking point than “Good knots”
How To Determine A Bad Knot
A bad knot is very easy to see because it leaves behind the telltale sign of trouble… the curly tag end.
Yes, the curly tag end that you may have seen after a break-off means that the knot used was either a bad knot, or there was a poor job in tying a good/great knot.
So if you ever see the curly end after a break-off, do not tie the same knot the same way because it’ll likely happen again.
How To Determine A Good Knot vs. A Great Knot
The difference between a Good knot and a Great knot requires the act of intentionally breaking them under a controlled test to see how much tension they can hold before the break occurs.
This is the missing link that most anglers overlook because it requires time and effort.
I am the perfect example of this because I was even fishing tournaments with money and pride at stake and never even bothered to actually test my personal knots.
And when I finally did test my knots, I was shocked at the results… the very first test I did revealed that I was getting 30% less strength than I otherwise would have had I been simply using a different knot for my line to leader connection (replacing the Double-Uni knot with the FG knot… both shown below).
So I highly recommend testing out your knots. And if you’d like a shortcut, this page shows the results from my testing below to help guide you to the best knots from my many tests done so far.
And I’ll continually update this “best fishing knot” post as more and more knots are tested so that you can have the latest and greatest data.
So if you want to save time while maximizing your line strength, this post is for you.
What Are The Best Fishing Knots?
There are many different types of lines which in many cases have completely different textures, sizes, and friction coefficients.
So we’ll be evaluating knots based on the type of line used within these general line categories:
- Braid
- Monofilament/Fluorocarbon
- Wire (Coming soon)
- Flyline (Coming soon)
And to truly evaluate a fishing knot, it is essential to focus each test on a specific type of connection because a knot that is very good for line-to-line connections is often not good at all for line-to-lure connections (and visa-Aversa).
So we’ll break out the rankings shown below into the following connections types for each line category:
- Line-to-Line Knots
- Line-to-Hook/Lure Knots [Snug]
- Line-to-Hook/Lure Knots [Loop]
Best Fishing Knots for Braided Line
Braided line has quickly become an extremely popular choice for inshore anglers because it allows for longer casts and better feel of lures given that its strength to diameter ratio is so much higher than mono/fluoro lines.
Plus, it has very little stretch which enables the angler to feel even the lightest of taps on the other end of the line.
But braid requires much for friction within the knot compared to monofilament so it almost always requires a different knot than the traditional knots used on mono.
Best Braid to Leader Knots
To kick things off, we’ll start with the most important of all connections for most saltwater anglers who use a lighter main line to connect to a stronger leader.
This setup is becoming very common because it allows for the overall system to have optimal casting performance (due to the lighter line in the reel) while having a stronger leader line at the business end to hold up to the sharp teeth and/or rough mouths of the target species.
Fluorocarbon is the most commonly used monofilament leader these days since it’s known for being less visible in the water while also being more resistant to abrasions, so this analysis is focused on connecting a braided line to a fluorocarbon leader.
Here are the top 5 ranking knots based on the knot tests I’ve done so far:
- FG Knot*
- Pro: Thinnest knot I’ve ever seen while also having the highest breaking strength.
- Con: Requires a strong cinch before cutting the tags so that it fully locks into place.
- Note: Only use this knot if tying a braided line to a stronger mono/fluoro leader.
- 6 Turn Surgeon’s Knot
- Pro: Very quick to tie while having a shocking strong breaking point and can be tied using lines of any size
- Con: Bulkier and slightly weaker than the FG knot
- Doubled-Over Double Uni Knot
- Pro: Easy knot to tie and it can be used for all connections
- Con: Up to 30% weaker than the FG knot in my tests
- Crazy Alberto Knot
- Pro: Nice low profile knot with a strong breaking point
- Con: Up to 30% weaker than the FG knot in my tests
- Improved Albright
- Pro: Nice low profile knot with a strong breaking point
- Con: Weaker than the FG knot and the Crazy Alberto
Click here to see the first contest I hosted for this connection.
Note: If your favorite knot isn’t included, leave a comment below and I’ll test it out and add it to the list.
Best Doubled Braid-to-Leader Knots
Many anglers like to double the braid by forming a loop at the end of the braid and then tying a line-to-line knot to connect the doubled braid to the leader.
In many instances, this does increase the overall line strength for anglers who are using a lighter braid relative to the leader.
However, the FG knot tied on a single line has proven to outperform the doubled knot connections in most of my testing. The only combination that consistently beats the single line FG knot is the use of the FG knot to connect a doubled line formed by the Bimini Twist to the leader.
Line Doubling Knots [Braid]
- Bimini Twist
- Pro: Extremely strong doubling knot
- Con: It often requires more twists (30+) with braid so that it won’t slip
- Spider Hitch
- Pro: Faster to tie than the Bimini Twist
- Con: Not as strong as the Bimini Twist
- Surgeon Loop (6-turn)
- Pro: Extremely fast to tie
- Con: Not quite as strong as the Bimini Twist
Doubled Line To Leader Knots [Braid to Fluoro]
- FG Knot
- Pro: Thinnest knot I’ve ever seen while also having the highest breaking strength.
- Con: Requires a very strong cinch before cutting the tags so that it fully locks into place.
- Note: Only use this knot if tying a braided line to a stronger mono/fluoro leader.
- No-Name Knot (aka- Bristol Knot)
- Pro: Quick and easy knot to tie
- Con: Not as strong as the FG knot
- Yucatan Knot
- Pro: Quick and easy to tie (very similar to Bristol knot)
- Con: Not as strong as the FG knot
Note: If your favorite knot isn’t included, leave a comment below and I’ll test it out and add it to the list.
Best Braid-to-Swivel/Lure/Hook Knots
This next category is focused for anglers who use braided line and like to use swivels.
But it could also be useful if you like to use connect your braided line directly to your terminal tackle (although I do not recommend tying directly to your lure or hook using braid because fish can see it so much better than mono/fluoro… instead, use a ~20 to 30 inch leader in between your braid and lure/hook).
- Modified Uni Knot
- Pro: Great knot that is very strong and easy to tie
- Con: Although an easy knot to tie, some are faster
- San Diego Jam Knot
- Pro: Strong knot that is easy and quick to tie
- Con: Not quite as strong as the Modified Uni Knot
- Palomar Knot
- Pro: Very fast and easy to tie
- Con: Not as strong with braid as it is with mono
- Orvis Knot
- Pro: Quick and easy to tie
- Con: Not as strong with braid as it is with mono
- Improved Cinch Knot
- Pro: Quick and easy to tie
- Con: This knot doesn’t perform well with braid (prone to slippage)
Click here to see results from a contest I hosted for this connection.
Note: If your favorite knot isn’t included, leave a comment below and I’ll test it out and add it to the list.
Best Fishing Knots for Monofilament/Fluorocarbon Line
Monofilament line is used by almost all anglers in some capacity, so I’ve done many tests with knots using mono line.
For tests that I’ve done for my personal use, I focused on Fluorocarbon line, which is a specific type of mono.
Many anglers use Fluorocarbon for their leader material since it’s known to be stronger the less visible than traditional monofilament line.
Here’s what I’ve tested so far:
Best Mono-to-Mono Knots
Here are the top mono-to-mono knots that I have tested:
- 3 Turn Surgeon’s Knot*
- Pro: Extremely easy and fast knot to tie with very strong holding strength
- Con: Need to tie this before tying on a lure or hook
- SS Knot
- Pro: Versatile knot connection with an impressive breaking strength
- Con: Not quite as fast or strong as the Surgeon’s knot
- Double Uni Knot
- Pro: Easy knot to tie and it can be used for all connections
- Con: Not as fast or strong as the Surgeon’s knot
- Albright Special
- Pro: Easy knot to tie that looks very nice once completed
- Con: Not as fast or strong as the Surgeon’s knot
- Blood Knot
- Pro: Easy to tie with lines of similar size
- Con: Not as effective with lines of different diameters
Click here to see results from a contest I hosted for this connection.
Note: If your favorite knot isn’t included, leave a comment below and I’ll test it out and add it to the list.
Best Line-to-Hook Knots [Mono/Fluoro]
Now that we covered the very important line-to-line connection, let’s dig in to the best fishing knots for connecting our hooks and lures to the end of the line.
For this category, we’ll split it up into two sections to cover the two core different types of connections:
- Loop Knot – Leaves a loop so that the lure/hook has more range of motion in the water (less strength compared to snug)
- Snug Knot – Line hugs around hook/lure eye forming a strong connection (less range of motion)
Note: I’ve specifically focused on fluorocarbon line since it’s the most popular for saltwater anglers… if you want me to test these with standard mono, just let me know and I’ll add it to this post.
Best Loop Knot to Lure/Hook
When fishing with artificial lures, using a loop knot is an advantage because it allows the lure to have more motion in the water which most often leads to more strikes.
But the downside is that loop knots are not as strong as snug knots, so that needs to be taken into account when selecting your leader line size and when setting drag.
Here are my favorites:
- Rapalla Loop Knot
- Pro: The strongest loop knot I’ve tested so far
- Con: Takes a bit longer to tie than many others and leaves a tag end facing up which can snag weeds/debris
- Non-Slip Loop Knot (aka. Kreh Loop)*
- Pro: Very quick and easy to tie and has a tag end that points down towards the lure (more weedless)
- Con: Just a tad weaker than the Rapalla knot
- Figure 8 Loop Knot
- Pro: Tested to be very strong (very close to Rapalla Loop Knot
- Con: Takes longer to tie than the Non-Slip Loop knot and does not have a weedless tag end
- Perfection Loop Knot
- Pro: Strong loop knot that is quick to tie
- Con: Tougher to tie since this knot requires the hook/lure to pass through a loop
- Canoe Man Loop Knot
- Pro: Extremely fast loop knot to tie
- Con: Strength test was great with traditional mono, but it didn’t perform nearly as well with fluorocarbon
Click here to see the first contest I did with this important connection.
Note: If your favorite knot isn’t included, leave a comment below and I’ll test it out and add it to the list.
Best “Snug” Knot to Lure/Hook
When going for maximum strength when having action in the water is not as important, then the snug knot is the way to go because a good snug knot will be a significant amount stronger than a good loop knot.
Here’s my ranking of the Snug knots that I’ve tested so far:
- Palomar Knot
- Pro: Very strong knot that is easy to tie when using bare hooks
- Con: Can become cumbersome when using larger lures because it requires the lure pass through a loop
- Orvis Knot
- Pro: Very quick and easy knot to tie that is very strong
- Con: Not quite as strong as the Palomar knot
- Uni Knot
- Pro: Good knot that is fairly quick to tie and can be used for almost any connection
- Con: Not quite as strong as the Palomar knot
- Double Davy Knot
- Pro: Very quick and easy to tie (just 1 more twist vs. the Davie Knot)
- Con: Not quite as strong as the Orvis knot which is just as easy to tie
- Davy Knot
- Pro: Very quick and easy to tie
- Con: Not quite as strong as the Orvis knot which is just as easy to tie
- Improved Cinch Knot
- Pro: Quick and easy to tie
- Con: Prone to slippage and not as strong as the others listed above
Click here to see the first contest I did with this important connection.
Note: If your favorite knot isn’t included, leave a comment below and I’ll test it out and add it to the list.
More test data getting added soon, so be sure to bookmark this page!
Conclusion
Of the many factors that determine if you land the fish of a lifetime that you hook, the one that we have 100% control over is the quality of the knots that we use.
So it’s essential for us to select the absolute best fishing knot for each connection to get the most overall line strength.
You have certainly heard the saying, “A chain is only as strong as its weakest link…” Well, a rod, reel, and an angler are only as strong as the knot between them and the fish.
Make it count.
There isn’t (and never will be) one fishing knot that can do everything with all line types and connection needs, so make sure to be mindful of the knot options you have for each connection need you have.
This post will continually grow over time as knot suggestions come in, so leave a comment below letting us know of any other knots you’d like us to add to this analysis.
Note: The * symbols next to the knots listed above are the ones that I personally use for each of the respective connections.
The tests have been done using 10 to 20 lb PowerPro tied to 20 to 30 lb Ande and Seaguar fluorocarbon.
Related Post: Fastest Way To Tie The Amazing FG Knot [PDF Guide Included]
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128 Comments on "The Best Fishing Knots Of All Time [Ranked Strongest To Weakest]"
A+++ GREAT article guys Now I know what knots to stick with.
I’d love to see a comparison between the FG and the RP knot.
Great article, anyway to make this a quick reference guide so when I’m out on the water I know what’s knots to use in which situation?
Thanks Chris! I am glad to see that you are enjoying this fishing knots post. I’ll be continually adding to it as I test out more and more knots.
Chris…just hit share and send to your email, I then put the article in my “Fishing Folder”, just refer to it when needed.
line doubling knots : aussie plait or australian braid
Thanks for submitting the knot suggestions!
Hey, thought I would reach out and ask about what I’ve heard called the “Jimmy Houston Knot”, its on utube and I’ve watched Jimmy tie it several times. I have tried it and my line breaks before the knot does, Jimmy says it is a 100% knot and the only one he has ever seen. Good for any line type, can you check it out and get back to me?
I’ll be sure to give the Jimmy Houston knot a try next chance I get. Fish On!
Jimmy Houston Knot
I watched him tie it several times. It’s not terribly complicated. Tried it in 20# and 30#, then looked up every video and description I could find. I’m tying it right; it is not 100%.
Tested my best wrap of this knot in 30# copoly (10 tries) and 60# (5 tries) in fluorocarbon. Used steady increasing force to break it. Every time it broke where the main backbone went into the coils. Not somewhere in the backbone, but at the knot, where the backbone entered the coils. Yes, the knot was still on the eye, but sometimes the knot had a double wrap of line still around the eye and sometimes only one leg still holding the knot on.
In every case, the knot failed before the main line did. Too be fair, it is a solid knot, not hard to tie if you are not slowed by arthritis as I am, a kind of inverted improved clinch knot that performs way better than the improved clinch knot or even the Trilene knot, but not any better than a double double Palomar or a well tied multi coil uni knot. And it is cinch only, not a loop or anything I’d try using to tie line to line….
I’m thinking the people touting this knot are not examining the remains of the knots after breakage beyond noting the knot is still attached. The one leg gone on the doubled through the eye portion is a serious clue, but dissecting the knots that had both loops around the eye intact show the backbone broke at or just below the first coil at the top of the knot. It may be that stronger line caused recoil to push the broken end in to the eye and all the ones proponents examined had both loops intact around the eye. Used larger sizes so I could actually examine the insides of the knot with bright light and cut away parts during the necropsy to see the break.
It will keep a hook or plug on a line pretty good, but by definition is is not 100% of line strength.
My theory is increased constriction on the backbone (main or standing line) by the coils causes it to narrow the circumference and thus weaken it so it is what gives first.
I’ve never seen a 100% line strength knot in less than 400# test mono. (And almost no practical knot at or above that.) Not in half a century of looking. But I always stand ready to be amazed.
——Henry.
I’ve had great success tying mono to lures/hooks with a Jansik Special knot. Any thoughts?
Thanks for the great info.
Huge thanks for making it simple. I’ve cought a lot of 20 lb Redfish on the Clinch knot. A few times it has unraveled but overall a great easy knot. Re-rigged all of my lines with the FG knot for braid to flouro and very impressed with the difference in diameter. Now will work on breaking another old habit and go with the polymer for hook connection. Thanks for all you do the lifetime of information u provide. Thankful I chose to be Salt Strong!
So glad to see that you’re enjoying these fishing knot tutorials. Good job making time to learn the FG knot… you’ll be getting a huge increase in strength relative to the Clinch knot that you were using before. Fish On!
So I recently found a variation of the Orvis knot known as the Orvis Tippet knot. It’s used to join similar diameter mono lines together and I thought it might have a chance against the venerable Surgeon’s knot. I would love to see your results added here. https://news.orvis.com/fly-fishing/pro-tip-how-to-tie-the-orvis-tippet-knot
Thanks for submitting the knot request Joshua! I have used the Orvis knot for line to hook/swivel connections for years, but I never considered using it for line to leader too. I’ll make sure to add this to my list of knots to test out. Fish On!
Hi Luke,
My name is Earl. l live in San Diego.
A popular knot used out here on the west coast is the RP ( Royal Polaris) knot. It is a strong knot for braid to mono or fluorocarbon line.
I would like to see the results of this knot compared to the FG knot.
THank you.
I just found some videos showing the Royal Polaris knot and they all seem to be the same as what we can the Crazy Alberto knot over here. Here’s a post that shows how the FG knot compares to it in addition to how it is tied so you can make sure it’s the same knot: https://www.saltstrong.com/articles/albright-vs-alberto-vs-fg-knot/
Old arthritic hands. any tips on swivels or clips that make lure change easier without hindering action or deterring fish.
Have you tried the Surgeon’s knot yet (https://www.saltstrong.com/articles/surgeons-knot/)? It’s the knot that requires the least amount of tight motions and it’s surprisingly strong.
As for clips, they all pretty much are the same… if the surgeon knot isn’t comfortable, then I would recommend finding the smallest clip you can find that’s strong enough to handle your target species.
Arthritic fingers – what knots?
I started fighting Arthur (Ankylosing spondylitis in hands and spine) at age 13. Symptoms started 45 years ago while growing up a commercial fisherman, so I have long sought to avoid tying knots in the field whenever possible. Tying much of my terminal tackle in a warm dry living room with table space, tools and jigs is how I mostly do it these days. The trick was coming up with a quick change that did not require complicated hand motions, repetition or heavy stress on fingers out in the cold and wet, but avoided snap swivels though I used those for years before developing this system.
Braid and fluorocarbon have complicated the process by requiring multiple modifications and newly adopted knots followed by testing those knots at the bench and in the field and finding what works.
The last couple decades I have only recreationally fished with artificials, but my prior experience rigging commercial equipment provided some background in adaption and materials testing that was useful. [I built and designed nets, traps (lobster and fish), longline gear, harpoon rigs and more, then tested them against some of the toughest customers to be found it the water.]
For inshore light tackle ( 7 ft one piece Berkeley Lightning rods, 2500 series reels, 15-20 lb braid, 20-30 lb copolymer leader, flukes, paddletail jigs, bucktails, whopper ploppers, woodchoppers, spinner rigs, etc.) I use a system to avoid tying much of anything in the field. Start with extra matching rod reel combos so you first just change rods in and out of a rod holder rack.
Then tie leaders longer than you need to repair bite offs and breaks on structure without having to tie new leader to the braid. Use a good braid to leader knot you can successfully tie over and over. I’ve used double uni, slim beauty, multi wrapped Surgeon’s knots, but prefer by far the Chinese finger cuff knot or FG knot finished with a uni knot instead of half hitches. Break offs almost always happen at the leader, or a nick in the braid, but rarely at the FG knot when properly tied. I’ve snapped several earlier rods at the reel seat inside my hand before the braid or leader before using Lightning rods. ( I tried St. Croix rods but not any better IMHO.)
The key to the quick field changes of lures works this way. I tie a 3-4 inch loop in the end of the leader. Then I have a stub leader tied with a loop or modified Palomar to the jig or other lure terminating 5-6 inches out with a 2-4 inch loop. Loop to loop knot the leader to the stub leader. NOTE: Be sure NOT to make a GIRTH HITCH. Slide the stub loop over the leader loop, bring the jig up through the leader loop and pull the stub leader all the way out by the jig.
The Loop to loop forms a square knot between the two loops. The tag ends are secured by the loop knots so the knot cannot capsize. However if you push the two loops toward each other, one in each hand, the loop to loop can be untied. Even serious strain does not lock it. I’ve lifted a commercial crab trap with one and still untied the loop to loop. You can change lures in a few seconds. If the stub leaders tangle, they’re easily untangled or can be isolated by using sandwich sized zip locks to store them in the tackle box.
Depending on the eye of the lure, a stub leader is not always necessary, but to get the right action sometimes they are essential. Any well performing loop knot you can regularly tie should work if strong and stable. I use perfection knots with extra wraps all the way around with the tag end between the first two loops that form the perfection loop by tucking one through the other. This prevents the copolymer from slipping. Works for pure fluorocarbon too.
You tie the leaders and FG knots at home at your own pace, stopping whenever you need to stop.
In the wind and rain you only have to manage one or two loops. Beats tying on every lure you use. Tested it in the wild against straight leader same lure. Caught same on both rigs. I never saw a fish flare from the loops. Can’t say the same for swivels and clips.
——-Henry.
Thanks so much for providing the great tips. Sure sounds like that loop to loop system can be very helpful for quick changes. I’ve used that for fly fishing, but I did never considered it for traditional leaders… will have to give it a shot.
WOW Henry! Now I have arthritis of the brain. Gonna take me a while to digest and practice your advice. Appreciate the detail and rationale. More to your post than the loop knot, you are a rich source of experience and know how.
Thanks for the info.
Jim
Hope it helps and contact me if you run into any problems implementing it. I used it all day today casting everything in my box for this time of year here at points, rips, and marsh islands. Nasty low pressure rainstorm showed up toward evening so I would have had to go in or stop changing lures. Fish already being wet, rain only removes top water and much chance at snakeheads. So I pulled on the duck hunting parka and kept casting for 2 more hours before limping home and cranking up the electric throw on my recliner.
Only knot I tied all day, not to a dock cleat, was a perfection loop when I shortened a leader to avoid wind knots from the stiffening breeze. Hands throbbing like someone beat them with an axe handle but I fished all day. Beats desk duty or any chore I’ll be doing tomorrow.
——Henry.
Blood knot
For tying braid, mono or fluorocarbon directly to a hook, I use the traditional Snell knot. It’s never slipped on me, what a knot!! Give it a go
The Snell knot is one of the absolute strongest for tying to a hook because it enables so much evenly distributed friction along the line and the hook. I have not done a formal test on it yet because I rarely use live or cut bait so rarely tie directly to a hook… also, I use light mainline relative to the stronger leader for the business end of my line assembly so the maximizing the strength of that final knot doesn’t add any extra overall strength since the knot on my mainline is on a much weaker line.
That being said, it’s absolutely on my list of knots to test out.
The Snell knot also gives us Texas rigged bass guys the “kick” at hook set. Grab the weight, pull the line, and watch what happens. I land twice as many using the Snell on a Texas rig than say a Palomar that pulls out of their mouths but you have to feed the line from the front when tying.
Luke I recently respooled with 10# spider wire ultra cast braid and my fg knots don’t seem to hold…any thoughts?.. .I seem to get a little more distance with this braid but the coating may be a problem. Up north with nanofil I have to double the braid loop with my double uni knots but tying the fg with a doubled ultra cast does not seem to be the answer…thanks
The fg knot is a great knot. When im using a slippery style of braid (such as what you are using) i rub some sand paper or a sharpening stone on the area of your leader where the FG knot will clinch down onto. This will give the braid a textured surface to help stay in position. Also make sure you tighten the knot so that it clinches down / bites onto your leader martial. Good luck
I am not sure what the FG knot isn’t holding with your spider wire line. What size leader are you using?
Either 20 or 30 depending on the situation. I was using seguar blue, tried seguar premium and now a softer advance…same results
Interesting. I’ll pick up some spiderwire to see if I see those results too. If you haven’t already tried this yet, do another one with 14 to 16 coils because using less of them will make them more likely to dig the necessary groves into the outer layer of the leader. And be sure to put a lot of tension on it before cutting off the tag end of the leader… it needs to fully set in place before that is cut.
Will do. I did try up to 30 wraps without success. May just have to respool with power pro
Try tying the half hitches at the end of the fg knot good and tight before pulling to set the knot.
For joining braid to braid could two bimini doubles be used like a wind on leader. Would like to see it tested.
The bimini twist is essentially a just slip knot that has a lot of friction. But with the low-friction tendency of braid lines, the bimini loop can often slip once it gets close to its max tension load, so I do not recommend using a bimini loop connected to another bimini loop.
I think you will post some info in the future on fly lines but any thoughts on something easy for fly line to leader? Would you do two Surgeon’s loops for a loop to loop connection?
You provide great info on your site. Really appreciate it.
John
Yes, I will be sure to add in some tests for fly line knots. The knot that I was taught for fly line connections was the Perfection Loop knot to create the loops and then loop to loop connections. But I have not tested that against the other options so I can’t say for sure which is best… I’ll add it to my list of knots to test out.
for mono to hook, do you think palomar reigns supreme over snelling?
If going for pure strength, I believe that the snell knot is extremely tough to beat because it does the best at spreading the tension load while also getting friction assistance from a larger surface of the hook.
I am always using a lighter main line for increased casting/retrieving performance with a stronger leader to handle the business end of the line assembly, so I don’t worry about the final knot to the hook nearly as much as I do the line-to-line knot which is statistically going to be the weakest link.
Have you done a test between the snell knot and Palomar? Im concerned about knot strength more than anything. Thanks.
I have not tested those two out against one another yet, but my assumption is that the snell knot will be stronger because it does a better job at spreading the tension load across a wider range.
What about the Red Philips knot for braid to fluro?
I have not yet tested the Red Philips knot… it’s now added to the list. Thanks for the great suggestion Brent!
Is the San Diego jam knot strong to tie jigs using floro. I mainly fish walleye in Ontario.
Thanks.
It is a strong knot, but I recommend using Loop knots for jigs because it allows more action in the water. Here’s a post showing some top options for loop knots: https://www.saltstrong.com/articles/best-loop-knot-for-fluorocarbon-leader/
FG knot is a pain to tie in the boat, otherwise a great knot. I’ve been tying a Bristol for braid to fluoro, but I reverse it. I double over the leader and tie the Bristol around it. 11 turns for 20# fluoro, and maybe 10 for 30. Give it a try and see how it does. Makes a knot easily as small as a Crazy Alberto.
I’m curious to learn more about your reverse bristol knot… are you saying that you tie your leader into a loop and then wrap the leader around the braid? If so, what pound lines are you using when doing that?
No, I don’t TIE a loop in the fluoro leader, I simply double it over about 6 inches. I insert the braid in the loop at the end and pinch it there while I wrap the braid around the fluoro. Trim the braid tag and then the short end of the leader, not quite flush. The knot makes the tag end lay down next to the working side of the leader and it passes through 4.5mm guides with no problem. I use it for everything. I will send a couple of photos to the email I just received. But for example, I use it to tie 40 or 50# braid to a 60 or 80# mono shock leader for wreck fishing in the Gulf. I tie anywhere from 10# braid for Trout to 30# braid for Spinnerbaits on Redfish to up to 30# leaders. I double over a 3′ piece of fluoro with a 3/16’s jig on each end and tie either the braid directly to it with the Bristol, or first a 6′ piece of fluoro to the braid and then the 6′ piece to the double rig exactly the same way. Again, I’ll take a 3′ piece and tie a Sheepshead hook on one end and a perfection loop for sinker attachment on the other for a bottom rig. If I’m tying 40 – 80# braid for Gulf fishing, I might make 8 turns around the leader instead of the 11 I use for 10-30# braid.
Thanks for sharing your tips Milt!
I want to thank you guys for answering so many of my questions… after I have used your FG knot successfully on thin braid and leader to fly line I am never going back to anything ells. I mainly use the Palomar knot for terminal tackle connections. But recently my father in law showed me how to tie a knotless knot. I was very impressed by its strength as I could not break the knot. have you tested this knot against the orvis knot?
thanx again for the great work you guys are doing!!
Could you please send me a video or diagram of the knotless knot you described? I don’t believe I’ve ever seen that knot.
Thank you! Although the kreh is already an easy knot I figured the canoe would be even quicker and uses less leader line (if retying often). I will try the test and may be switching knots. An added bonus is my son could easily tie his own loop knots then with confidence!
Hello Luke,
I appreciate your response to my prior question. Another question… What is the advantage of Snelling a hook? And a follow up question… There seems to be many different ways to snell a hook. Is one way better than another?
I appreciate your advice.
Ben
Hey Ben, the advantage of snelling a hook is that it typically results in a very strong connection given all of the surface area that toughs the hook shank.
That is more for natural bait fishing which I do not do much of (I use artificial 99% of the time), so I personally do not have much experience with using different variations of the snell knot.
Luke,
So I stumbled back across this article and a thought came to me (kinda scary lol). With the line testing you have been doing revealing nylon mono may be just as good, if not better, than flouro how does this impact the knot tests? The one that specifically got my attention was the loop knots. Do you recall the strength of the canoe loop with regular mono (it wasn’t posted but you said it was significantly better)? Would it be an equivalent or better option than the kreh with regular mono?
Thank you!
Charlie
Hey Charlie, I cannot remember how much better the Canoe Loop was over the others with the mono. I’m sure that it wasn’t a huge margin because that knot is so small which does not allow it do spread the tension load over much area. I recommend tying them onto a stand of whatever line you plan to use and pulling until the weaker one breaks (tie them to a swivel and secure the swivel to a strong object so that you’re protected from any recoil).
Hello Luke,
Great information as always and greatly appreciated. Is there an ” improved” FG knot for a double line, for example securing off a Bimini twist?
I did some testing of the FG knot on a doubled line, and the FG knot tied onto a doubled line from a bimini twist did prove to be stronger than the single line FG knot, but the bimini needs to have 50+ twists in it compared to the ~20 twists that seem to be the norm… when doing ~20 twists, the bimini twist (which is essentially a big slip knot) began to slip which put all of the force onto one of its legs which caused a weak point.
Given the added time it takes to tie the bimini with so many twists and the minor added strength that it provides, I recommend the normal single line FG knot.
The line that’s used makes a big difference. What line mfg. are you using and what pound test? In mono, fluoro and spectra.
I will buy some and see if what you are using is capable of producing a 100% knot.
There are many variables that affect knot strength.
The main ones are:
Material used in Line mfg. Some mfgs. use low grade materials resulting in an impossible 100% knot..
How the knot it tied. There are always several ways to tie the same knot some drastically affecting results.
How the knot is cinched down is critical.
Line diameter as per pound test on the lable. They vary all over the place for the same claimed breaking strength.
In reply to this comment from Salt Strong:
I’ll be quick to change the claim that there is no such thing as a “100% knot” as soon as I find a knot that consistently is not part of the failure point when putting more tension on the line than the line/knot can handle. If you know of any knots that can qualify as 100%, please do not hesitate to let me know. Note: To qualify as a 100% knot, the breaking point of the line must consistently be away from the knot when putting more tension on a line assembly than it can handle… I’ve had seen knots pull that feat off before, but I have yet to find one that can do it consistently.
Go to it or reply: https://www.saltstrong.com/articles/fishing-knots/#comment-22377
Hey Walt, I use a variety of lines in these experiments. But most often a 10 lb PowerPro braid for knots involving braided lines. And then 20 to 30 lb leader material from manufacturers like Seaguar and Ande for fluoro/mono tests.
Do you have a line and knot combo that truly gets a 100% knot strength? If so, please let me know and I’ll be happy to get that line and use the knots that are already proven to work.
The “100% fishing knot” is a myth. That statement is a myth. Keep experimenting and sooner or later you will be successful at tying a 100% knot.
I’ll be quick to change the claim that there is no such thing as a “100% knot” as soon as I find a knot that consistently is not part of the failure point when putting more tension on the line than the line/knot can handle.
If you know of any knots that can qualify as 100%, please do not hesitate to let me know.
Note: To qualify as a 100% knot, the breaking point of the line must consistently be away from the knot when putting more tension on a line assembly than it can handle… I’ve had seen knots pull that feat off before, but I have yet to find one that can do it consistently.
Has the FG knot been tied in reverse, instead of mono to braid, braid to mono, and if so is it just as strong? I understand the concept, the braid cutting into the top layer of the mono, so this still should happen in reverse.
I don’t believe that it’ll work that way because the braid is too nimble which would make it very tough to be the center point of the FG knot… Let me know if you somehow get it to work.
How about trying a Red Phillips knot ?
I have that next on my list of knots to test out… coming soon.
It is very bulky and a pain to cast with especially when using long leaders. It is the main reason it is not widely used I think. But it is super strong.
Using mono or fluoro leader, have you compared the palomar or orvis knots to the modified uni knot? I’ve been using the modified uni knot for a while now to attach braid and fluoro to swivels, hooks, and lures without problems. I believe the modified uni knot (aka fish n fool knot) did very well in a comprehensive knot wars competition in the past. The orvis knot does look easy to tie and having tag end face away from the rod is a plus.
Yes, the Modified Uni is equivalent if not stronger than the Palomar knot (very close). And the Orvis knot is not quite as strong as either of them. However, I use light braid with a stronger leader so the leader that’s typically 2 times stronger than the main line, so the lure to leader knot is never the weakest link… so I prefer to use the Orvis knot because it’s quicker to tie and leaves its tag end facing backwards while it is still much stronger than the weakest link (the braid to leader knot).
Hey luke not to get off the subject i was just trying to go on the site to ask you a question do you sell your hays anymore i looked on your site in the apparels link but all i saw is shirts and hoodies and in accessories no hats just headbands and gaters i know your t going to sell anymore clothing in fact i believe your deadline is tommorrow but i was at least interested in a hat if no thats alright?
Wow never really thought about it that much but with my experience and since i have used braid i still like the improved cinch knot for braid to florocarbon leader i use power pro 20 lb with a Berkley inviso-line also 20 lb leader and very seldom do i have breakoff or a knot slippage my knots usually are so strong that i have bent strong hooks pulling on them when. snagged but i guess its just a matter of preference what works for some doesnt necessarily work for others anyways though great tips you have certainly made your point and a good one at that thank you😀
Yes, different lines react to knots different ways in some cases, so there typically is not a one-size-fits-all answer to which knot is the absolute best. But I do recommend giving the 6 turn surgeon knot a try because you should get a 20%+ stronger connection for your braid to leader connection because it is more efficient at spreading the tension load more evenly than the cinch knot… and an added bonus is that it’s super quick and easy to tie.
Do it at home and test its breaking strength against the cinch. And I believe you’ll be as surprised as I was when I started running tests on the knots that I used for years before.
Fish On!
whats the best braid to braid knot?
Here’s the best braid to braid knot that I’ve tested so far: https://www.saltstrong.com/articles/strongest-braid-to-braid-fishing-knot/
On the West Coast, the knot usually recommended to connect a fluoro leader to mono is the “Seaguar knot”. Is the result the same as the 3-turn surgeon’s knot?
The Seaguar Knot is slightly different than the Surgeon’s Loop… the difference is that the loop gets twisted in the Seaguar knot where the lines get twisted around the Loop in the Surgeon. They are very similar, but a test I did on it a while back had the Surgeon being slightly stronger.
The Miller knot is a stronger knot than your Palomar knot, very small and takes seconds to tie. Instead of testing the Sandiego jam, try a double Sandiego jam. It takes a little longer to tie but much stronger than your Palomar knot.
What line(s) were used for the Miller vs. Palomar knot test(s)?
What lines work best for the double Sandiego jam knot?
You mean the Joe Miller knot that is a modification of the trilene knot, not the Miller knot that has existed for a couple centuries for tying a bag shut securely and being able to be reopen it that is a modification of the clove hitch, right? The twist the Joe Miller knot has does fix much of the problem caused by tying the trilene knot in slip prone fluorocarbon and hard to cinch 200+ # test mono, but that clearly introduces multiple areas for mistakes when tied quickly that do not exist in a Palomar even if you correctly improve it by adding a turn around the eye and extra turn of the loop before dropping the hook or lure through.
On the other hand, I used the old Miller knot to tie big hooks to 400# and 600# test for catching swords and tuna on longline snoods because it held in testing and let me hide the hook in a squid bettter than everything else…. not sure how that would translate to modern cordage in much smaller diameters.
Which Miller knot do you mean?
I was using the FG, then started with a GT. Now I use double braid 4 turn nail knot. Never had one fail yet. You must double the braid or it may slip.
Thanks for all the work you put in testing the knots. Just finished testing the FG knot with a very slick braid (Tuff-Line Plus, no coating or color whatsoever) and it hold like a leech. Clearly better than my previous favorite Alberto.
Question: Why not use a Uni to lock the FG instead of multiple overhand knots?
“The only thing worse than getting skunked is having the whole world learn about it”
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Glad to see that you’re enjoying the FG knot! I don’t use the Uni to lock it because I can tie the hitches much faster and they haven’t ever unwound on my yet.
Note: The full strength of the knot is held in the FG coils… the finishing knot is simply there to keep the coils in place.
I have to disagree with the blanket recommendation of the fg knot. The power pro and regular ande flouro you tested it with is almost ideal conditions for the knot. A rough braid and a soft flouro. My experience with the knot is that it will always eventually fail when using a slicker braid and harder leader flouro(15 lb diawa J to 35 lb seagar abrazx). The knot has great initial strength under ideal conditions but low security. Wheras the alberto or surgeons have lower initial strength but are much less likely to work their selves loose. Although my experiences might differ from yours, I do enjoy your writing and testing. Hey and my experience with the fg knot caused me to design my own knot. I consider it much more secure than the fg although it might not be any stronger then the alberto. Tight lines.
Thanks for sharing your feedback. Given that it’s impossible to test each knot with every line, I tried to structure this post to merely show my results for the lines I like to use so that others can see some data points for testing their connections on the lines they prefer to use.
I have used the FG knot with multiple braids (PowerPro, Finz, etc.) and leaders (Seaguar, Ande, Berkley, etc.). So far, it has worked great for them all. However, I have heard others having trouble with the coils slipping while they cast when using a heavy braid to a relatively light leader… my guess is that the top coil gets pulled from the friction of hitting the rod guides.
If you get a chance, please send in directions for your knot because it seems like it could help a lot of anglers increase their line strength.
Fish On!
have you try ag chain knot to tie off mono/flouro to swivel?
Yes, I have used it in the past but I still have not had a chance to test it out on the scale… it’ll be on my list for additional knots to test out once I can find some time for testing knot strengths. Fish On!
Hey Luke great information here – but why no mention of the pr knot ?
It is a very popular knot down here in Australasia for braid to leader but it does need a bobbin,
either a standard fly tying type or a special pr bobbin.
Keep up the good work.
Guy
Hello Saltstrong family. Luke once again I appreciate “The best fishing knots of all time” For myself it is refreshing to go over basic knots. To be proficient we need to practice so we can all can pass it on. Thanks for the post. Fish On? & Thigh Lines
Agreed ! Great stuff guys. Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure! Thanks so much for making time to leave the nice feedback.
What about the RedPhillips knot for braid to floro?
Thanks for adding the knot suggestion Jerry. I’ll add the Red Phillips knot to the list of knots to test out.
Love the red phillips
Can you test the John Collins, Royal Polaris knot?
Sure, I look forward to testing the John Collins and Royal Polaris knots against the others.
I’d like to see how an “Improved Davy” or “Double Davy” (essentially the Davy with 1 extra turn) would stack up against the Orvis. I’ve found that extra turn to add an exceptional amount of strength over the original Davy, and I suspect it would outperform the Orvis.
Thanks for leaving the recommendation. I’ll add the double davy to the list of knots to test out.
Line to lure MONO: Miller, Improved Clinch, Eye Crosser
Line to lure FLORO: Triple Loop, Berkly Braid
Line to lure BRAID: Improved Reverse Clinch, Burke
Thanks for the knot suggestions. I’ll add them to the list of knots to test and add to this post. Tight Lines!
what is the best way to tie two lures to the leader line and then the leader to the braid main line.
Great question on the multi-lure question… I need to eventually add a section for that after some more analysis is done. So far, the surgeon’s knot is the strongest way I’ve found to tie multiple lures to a leader. Here’s a link: https://www.saltstrong.com/kids-fishing/knots/dropper-loop-knot/
As for braid to the main line, I like the FG knot and the 6 turn surgeon’s knot best (linked above in this post).
Luke, I always enjoy the saltstrong Emails and all your research. I’ve learned much from you. When using the FG, you said only use a heavier leader than braid. Why is that?
I’ve been testing it with lighter leader than braid (example: 40# fluoro/80#braid) for off shore application with excellent results. Thanks again.
Greg
The FG knot relies on the braid digging groves into the outer layer of the leader in order to lock into place for good. And as the braid’s diameter gets closer to that of the mono, the braid has a tougher time digging in the needed groves so it can be at risk of sliding off during casts.
Also, the core purpose of it is to protect the braid from breaking by spreading the tension load across the many coils, so using a heavier braid on a lighter leader will only compromise the leader’s strength which will be a weak point in the line assembly… I’d recommend going to a 6 turn surgeon’s knot instead of the FG knot when using those two lines because it’ll do a better job at protecting the leader.
so I shouldn’t use an FG to tie 200# braid to 150# mono?
I have never tried the FG knot with braid over 50 lbs so unfortunately can’t say for sure if it would be good or not so good with such heavy line.
My hunch is that the braid may be too thick relative to the mono which could put it at risk of not forming the necessary groves into the outer layer of the mono for it to never slip or come undone.
Joe and Luke, this info on the various knots is really helpful. Thank you.
Thanks for making time to leave the nice comment Mel. Glad to see that you enjoyed this best fishing knots post. Tight Lines!
Thanks for all the info!!! Loving the insider life!!!! Keep it coming!!! Learn something new with every read on here and every outing in the boat!!!
#saltstrong
#thislifeaintforeveryone
Thanks for making time to leave the nice comment Stephen!
Have you tried the Joe Miller knot ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MaNx56sYEDY
I have not yet tried the Joe Miller knot, so I’ll add it to my list of knots to analyze. At first glance, it appears to be a good “snug” knot for tying directly to a hook.
For line to line connections, the “slim beauty” should be considered. Small enough to pass through guides, etc.
I tested the Slim Beauty in my very first test (https://www.saltstrong.com/articles/best-fishing-knot-for-braided-line/) and had a tough time with it.
I’ll give it another shot and will record the tying steps and results.
In the Best Braid-to-Swivel/Lure/Hook Knots, did you ever test the double double Palomar (twice through the eye and 2 times through for the overhand)? I’ve had great success with that for braid.
I tested the double double Palomar in a different test when I was analyzing different versions of the Palomar knot (here’s a link if interested: https://www.saltstrong.com/articles/strongest-palomar-knot), and it tested to be the best Palomar option for braid.
However, the double double Palomar was beaten by the Improved Uni knot linked above 5 out of 5 times when put head to head.
Thanks Luke. I appreciate all the knowledge and experience both you, Joe, and the rest of the tribe pass along. Great community you guys have fostered.
Luke thanx so much for all your instructive videos. Here’s a tip to share re: tying Bimini Twist learned from guide out of Marathon area—he liked much longer Bimini’s and did not use leaders—boy could he catch fish! He used same knot but MUCH longer which made it harder to tie without utilizing his technique. He simply put the loop around both knees (separated but not fully spread) after the 20 twists were introduced. Then it’s a simple matter to spread your knees to compact the twists and finish as in your video. A longer Bimini Twist will pass easily through the guides and distributes the tension across 2 lines. I have landed fish w only one leg of the line remaining following abrasion. Disclaimer: I have not used this technique with braid but will do so soon. I love it w mono.
Thanks for making time to leave the nice comment and the tip about the longer bimini twist. Please keep us posted about your results when testing it out with braid. Fish On!
I try clicking on the + sign to see what knots they are but nothing happens.
Which is stronger- the FG knot or double double uni-knot ?
The strength results will surely fluctuate depending on line brands, but the FG knot proved to be ~30% stronger than the double double uni knot in my test of it with braid to fluorocarbon (10 lb PowerPro braid to 30 lb Ande fluorocarbon). I’ll be doing another contest with different lines soon, but I feel confident saying that the FG is the way to go given the results of the first test and my usage of it since then.
For your next knot contest, be sure to add the 5 turn surgeon to the braid to leader category… it is quick to tie and has been working great for me for years.
Will do… we meant to include the surgeon in this original post. Thanks so much for making time to leave a comment.
I do a lot of knot testing. A knot you should test for a join to a swivel/hook/ring etc. with spectra. Take the spectra and tie a standard Trilene knot but use 18 wraps up with a small space between wraps and 18 wraps back down. Going down eliminate the spaces between wraps so the spectra is right next to the wrap next to it. You will get 20-30 wraps going back down. Now just put the tag end through the space at the bottom of the wraps next to the hook. The tag end does not need to be threaded under the double loops going through the hook eye. Wet it and cinch down. You will need a cinching tool to do this. I use a piece of 1″OD PVC wrapped with black electrical tape. Wraps about 8 turns of the spectra around the tool and hook the hook to something solid. You cannot cinch this knot by hand you must use the tool . It will take a lot of force to cinch up Pull slowly in several efforts do not try to cinch it down all at one time. This will eliminate any possible heat build up.
Hey Walter, thanks so much for leaving your great tip to this fishing knots post. I’ll give this modified Trilene knot a try. Fish On!
Hey guys,
I also research and test knots myself. The best knots are no knots, using wind on leaders with loop to loop connections. Also vs tying a bimini twist, you can stitch a loop in braid which is easy and and acts as a Chinese finger trap. Tests better than bimini.
There is a lot of scientific research that has been done by ‘paulusjustfishing’ website and great forums on the 360tuna website on rigging.
YouTube the TN knot for terminal connections. You can pull a truck with it. Ha
Keep up the great work and info guys! I’ve learned a lot
Sorry, it’s the NT knot. Finish with a risutto knot over the half hitches.