How To Tie The Perfect Fishing Leader for Snook, Redfish, and Seatrout
- By: Luke Simonds
- on December 16, 2019
FACT: A fishing leader can make or break you when it comes to landing the biggest fish of the day.
Having a good leader line with strong knots is absolutely essential for inshore anglers who want to land big snook, redfish, trout, tarpon, etc.
However, many inshore anglers simply have never been taught how to make their own leaders, or in many cases, they were taught an inferior way to tie leaders.
I know this because I used inferior knots for my personal leaders for 20+ years… even multiple years of tournament fishing when hard-earned money was on the line.
Many questions have come in relating to tying leaders for snook, redfish, and seatrout in the last couple of months, so I wantet to put focus back onto this article that shows how to tie the best fishing leader for inshore fish that I have found so far after many knot tests.
You’ll, of course, see the overview of why it’s important to use fishing leaders.
And you’ll see the best knots that have proven to outperform the others for the specific connections needed in a proper leader system.
Watch the video below to see what a fishing leader is, and when to use one, and then keep on reading below for everything you need to know about tying the best leaders.
What is a “Fishing Leader”?
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The fishing leader is a short strand of tough fishing line (often stronger and/or less visible than the main line) that is placed in between the main line in the reel and the hook or lure that an angler is using.
There is no maximum or minimum length for leaders, but they are most often in the 1 to 3 ft range… inshore recommendations discussed below.
Why Use A Leader For Saltwater Fishing?
A leader is needed for saltwater fishing because it provides an angler with the ability to keep a big, strong, and often toothy fish from biting through the line near the hook/lure (the “business end”) while allowing the angler to have a much thinner line in the reel for maximizing casting distance and performance.
In this article, we’ll focus the examples to leader assemblies designed to catch big snook, redfish, and seatrout.
What Is Needed To Tie A Fishing Leader?
Fortunately, there is not much equipment that is needed… it mostly involves just knowing how to best put it all together.
Here’s what you’ll need:
- Main line in spool (10 lb to 20 lb braid is what we recommend for anglers using spinning tackle)
- Note: we highly recommend braid because of its better casting performance and stronger breaking strength related to listed strength as compared to mono
- Leader line (20 lb to 40 lb monofilament)
- Lure/Hook (whichever lure/hook you plan to use)
- Pliers/Scissors/Knife to cut line
- [optional] Swivel… if you plan to use a bait that is prone to twisting up your line, then tying a swivel in between your main line and the leader is smart
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How To Tie A Fishing Leader
Many anglers over-complicate their leader lines and some are very intimidated by them… especially when tying line-to-line.
However, the process only consists of 3 steps, and it is quite simple once the knots are learned.
And after a bit of practice, anyone can complete the full assembly quickly even while out on the water in rough seas.
Here are the 3 core steps:
Step 1: Tie Line to Line Knot
The first step in tying a fishing leader is to connect your main line to your leader line…
This is by far the most important aspect of tying a leader line because it will most often be the weakest link in your assembly since the main line is kept light to increase casting performance, while the leader is the heavier of the two lines to withstand the sharp teeth/mouths of many saltwater fish.
For example, even a 50% knot on the hook/lure end of a 30 lb leader is stronger than a 100% knot on a 10 lb main line… (15 lbs vs. 10 lbs).
Here’s some “must-know” line to line knots for those who use braid and/or mono:
Braid to Mono
This FG Knot won our braid to leader knot contest by a considerable margin while also being the thinnest option of them all:
Note: Do not use this knot for a mono to mono connection… it requires braided line making the coils.
Mono to Mono
The Surgeon’s Knot is one of the strongest and quickest knots out there for mono to mono:
Note: The surgeon’s knot can be used to connect braid to mono/fluoro too, but it’s best to use 6 wraps if using braid vs. the 3 for mono to mono.
Leader Length [VIDEO]
Step 2: Determine Your Leader Length
There is no right or wrong length for a fishing leader.
I typically use leaders in the 2 to 4 ft range depending on what type of fishing I’m doing.
For instance, I use a shorter leader when fishing with artificial lures because I do not allow my knots to go through my rod guides because the friction from frequent casts will weaken any knot.
For live bait fishing when the cast count is a fraction of artificial, I’ll increase the length of my leader by 6 to 12 inches.
So I go with a ~24-inch leader for artificials and a 30+ inch leader when live baiting.
Note: Although I start with a minimum 24-inch leader, I’ll, of course, let it get shorter while in use after re-tying due to fish fraying the line or needing to switch lures/baits… I’ll often let it get down to 16 to 20 inches depending on water clarity (clear water = longer leader).
Step 3: Tie Lure or Hook to Leader
The final step is to connect your lure or hook to your leader.
Although maximizing the breaking strength here is not nearly as important compared to the line-to-line knot in step 1, its strength still needs to be considered.
However, some other factors come into play here that shouldn’t be overlooked either… especially when fishing with artificials:
- Does the knot maximize lure action?
- Will it snag weeds?
The most important aspect of a leader to lure/hook knot is its ability to allow the bait to have as much action as possible… and to address this factor, I highly recommend using a loop knot because the loop does not constrain the lure/hook nearly as much as a typical knot that hugs the eye.
Much lower on the importance list, but still very important is the knot’s ability to avoid snagging floating weeds/debris… because the debris stuck on the knot will significantly decrease the odds of you getting a strike.
If you’re using a leader that is close to the same breaking strength as your main line and your bait doesn’t require much action, then it is smart to use a snug knot because those knots have higher breaking strengths since they generate more friction along the surface area of the hook eye.
See below for the knots that won the respective knot contests:
The Top Weedless Loop Knot
Note: This Non-Slip Loop knot (also called Kreh Loop knot) won our leader to lure loop knot contest.
The Top Weedless Snug Knot
Note: This Orvis knot won our leader to lure snug knot contest.
How To Tie A Swivel Onto A Leader
When fishing with lures like spoons that are prone to cause twists in my line, it is good to tie a swivel in between the main line and the fishing leader line.
This will help decrease the line twists in your line, which will help decrease the odds of getting frustrating wind knots.
Just like before, the most important knot in this setup is the one that connects your main line to the swivel…
Since the FG knot is only for connecting a braided line to a mono leader, a different braid knot is needed.
Braid To Swivel Knot
Note: This modified uni knot for braid won our braid to swivel knot contest we held to evaluate this important connection.
Once this modified uni knot is tied, then use the Orvis knot shown above to connect the swivel to the leader.
If using a mono main line, I like tying the Orvis knot to connect to both sides of the swivel… it’s very simple to tie and has a very impressive hold strength. However, the very popular Palomar knot and the Uni knot are both excellent choices as well… they all 3 scored extremely close in our knot strength analysis.
What Size Leader Line Should I Use?
There is no one-size-fits-all fishing leader line size for any species… it all depends on water clarity, size of expected fish, amount of structure nearby, etc.
But here are the strength range that I most often recommend:
- Redfish, trout, and flounder on the flats: 20 lb to 25 lb mono leader and 10 lb braid main line is my favorite
- Snook on the flats: 25lb to 30 lb mono leader and 10 lb braid main line
- Snook and redfish in inlets and/or near structure: 40 lb to 60 lb mono leader and 20 lb to 30 lb braid main line depending on size of expected fish
- Tarpon/Cobia on the flats or near inlets: 50 lb to 80 lb mono leader and 20 lb to 40 lb braid/mono main line depending on size of expected fish
Although the 10 lb braid main line seems a bit light for battling big snook and reds on the flats, just keep in mind that the true breaking strength of braid is often much higher than its listed value.
For example, I consistently get a 20 lb to 22 lb line system when using an FG knot to connect my “10 lb” PowerPro braid to a 30 lb fluorocarbon leader… and this 20 lb level is higher than the max drag setting on most inshore spinning reels.
In case you’d like to see the light gear in heavy action… here’s a short video of a decent sized tarpon getting landed on my inshore setup:
The 2 core upsides to using lighter main lines are that they:
- Significantly increase casting performance (over 20% longer casts as shown in this casting experiment)
- Decrease wind/water drag which makes for an improved feel of strikes and a better retrieve while working lures
And these upsides completely overshadow the downside of the line not being quite as strong as it otherwise could have been in my opinion.
What Type of Leader Line Should I Use?
There are a few types of lines that are popular for leaders that all anglers should knot about… here’s a list:
- Traditional Monofilament – The economic option that’s better than what most anglers think
- Fluorocarbon – Fairly new type of Monofilament that is known for being less visible than regular mono based a lower refraction of light going through it
- Wire – Used when targeting toothy critters like sharks, mackerel, barracuda, etc.
There has been a lot of heavy marketing on behalf of fluorocarbon over the past 10 years that has make it very popular even though it costs significantly more than traditional monofilament.
I used to use it exclusively until the past 12-months when I began doing line tests between the two and found that the results for fluorocarbon have not justified the price difference… it actually has underperformed regular mono in abrasion experiments on a consistent basis. I’ll be doing some tests on the visibility factor soon.
What Type of Main Line Should I Use?
There is an endless amount of options for lines these days, so it’s tough to sort through the good vs. the bad.
For those of us who use spinning tackle, it is very helpful to use braid line vs. monofilament because the much thinner braid will significantly increase your casting distance (see braid vs. mono casting distance test here).
And the zero-stretch nature of braid will enable you to feel strikes and set hooks so much better which will undoubtedly result in more fish caught just by making this one simple adjustment.
Here are the strengths that I most often recommend based on fishing type:
- Redfish, seatrout, snook, and flounder on the flats: 10 lb to 15 lb braid main line is my favorite
- Big Snook and redfish in inlets and/or near structure: 20 lb to 30 lb braid depending on size of expected fish and the amount of current and structure that is typically present
- Tarpon/Cobia on the flats or near inlets: 20 lb to 40 lb braid/mono main line depending on size of expected fish
Conclusion
When fishing for most saltwater species, it’s important to use a fishing leader to increase the odds of landing the biggest fish of the day while also having the ability to effectively cast and present your bait for increased strikes.
And fortunately for you, tying a strong leader doesn’t require a lot of fancy equipment.
It simply involves having two different types of line and knowing 2 to 3 different knots.
Play around with the knots to find out which ones give you the best hookup ratios for the type of lines you use.
Any questions on how to tie a leader?
Just let me know in the Comments section below.
Related Posts:
1. The Best Fishing Knots Of All Time [Ranked Strongest To Weakest]
2. What Is The Proper Drag Tension To Use For A Fishing Reel?
3. The BEST DAY For You To Go Fishing…
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Please leave a comment below if you have any questions, or if you think I skipped over anything.
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STOP WASTING TIME ON THE WATER!
Do what the “SMART ANGLERS” are doing and join the Insider Club.
Here’s what you’ll receive today when you join:
- Weekly fishing reports and TRENDS revealing exactly where you should fish every trip
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- Exclusive fishing tips from the PROS you can’t find anywhere else
- Everything you need to start catching fish more consistently (regardless if you fish out of a boat, kayak, or land).
When using a gotcha plug or sting silver what knot would best be used to tie lure to ur leader? I like the idea of using the loop knot but worries me about the plug getting fouled with line more often. I typically use mono to flouracarbon leader tied with a uni.
Hey Adam, my apologies for taking so long to respond… I somehow missed your comment when it came in. Anyhow, I recommend using the Loop knot for all plugs/lures to allow them to have the most possible action in the water.
Although it seems as if loop knots would increase the amount of line foul-ups on the lure when a lure/plug with treble hooks, I have not seen any noticeable difference. Please let me know if you run into any issues with the loop knot leader assembly.
Fish On!
Awesome videos and information on all types of problems people have when fishing , Hats off to you for your work in training others the tricks of the trade.
I am a new surfcaster in NZ. I have been told the shock leader should be about 2.5 – 3 X the length of the rod (to go around the reel 3 or 4 times). That this helps with the cast of the weight. What are your thoughts?
My thought is that casting a knot through all of the rod guides on a frequent basis will significantly weaken the line. So I stick with leaders that are less than 3 ft so that I can cast them out without having the knots hit the rod guides.
The only time I use leaders longer than the rod is when fishing very finicky fish in very clear water… in those cases I’ll use light line and a live/chunk bait so casting isn’t done over and over again.
I have a stupid question. Do you buy leader material or do you just use regular line for the leader? Seems less costly to use regular line. Thanks in advance.
Great question… there are a seemingly endless supply of leader line options out there and it can get very confusing. For years, I simply used regular mono for leader since it’s so much less expensive. But when fishing tournaments, I began getting the expensive fluorocarbon leader line because everyone seemed to be raving over it. But I’m now going back and forth between the expensive fluoro and normal mono to see if there’s a noticeable difference or not and so far, I can’t tell much of a difference. Long story short, the expensive leader line works, but so does the normal mono… my recommendation would be to stick with a big brand so that you know you’re getting quality line.
Luke I’m just wondering if it would be a good idea if I tied a top loop knot from my leader to a tactical clip to change out lures if need be?
If you use a tactical clip, then using it at the leader as you specified is much better than having it right at the lure. The use of the loop and clip to change out lures is ok, but I prefer to not have any added weight on my line because it can cause the line to get damaged on the bottom if fishing shallow areas with structure (like oyster bars), so I use line to line knots and just tie a quick loop knot whenever in need of changing lures.
I’ve found that Super 8 Slick braid is much better for casting.
I haven’t been fishing since my dad took me when I was a young boy. In the recent years since he passed, I have wanted to get back out on the water and fish to feel close to him. I want to catch snook, but I’m afraid I won’t have the skill to do so. This article was helpful, I had no idea that tying main line to the leader was the most important step in tying a leader line.
Thanks for making time to leave the comment Burt.
I hope that you thoroughly enjoy your time out on the water in remembering your father and enjoying the outdoors.
Tight Lines!
Luke,
In tying the fg knot, after making the 20 loops with the leader line, what line do I use to make the hitch knots to lock the loops in place??
Use the braid to make the hitch knots… they should be tied with the tag end of the braid, and the hitch wraps should be done around the main line of the braid so it tightens down on the top of the FG coils.
ill be in st petersburg area feb 12- 27 i would like to try to catch a snook any suggestions
Hi Luke i would like to know if i can use flurocarbon line to make my leader and what is the difference between flurocarbon line versus flurocarbon leader material
wow thanks lucas for the leader to braid knot. it is my favorite and really strong. you made it so easy to learn. because of that knot i,m thinking about joining the insider but i,m skeptical because you don,t do much from my area in weeki wachee.
Hey Ronald, I’m glad to see that you like the leader to braid knot! I highly recommend giving the Insider membership a shot because it’ll ensure that you know what trends to look for when you’re out on the water so you don’t waste time in dead-zones.
What we’re finding is that redfish, trout, flounder, snook, tarpon, etc. behave very similar as the seasons and weather patterns change, and our weekly detailed reports will put you ahead of the competition.
The FG knot is a phenomenal knot with superior strength. I learned it originally from your video. Thanks for sharing. The FG knot takes a little practice but then becomes second nature. So important to make sure that your all wraps are “side by side” and don’t overlap each other otherwise the integrity of the knot is significantly compromised.
Thanks for making time to leave the nice comment. Yes, the coils must be done side by side without any overlaps.
Hey Luke…….another of your super informative articles which I’ll share with my yak fishing group. My only question is why you seem to favor mono over fluoro leaders??
Hey Gary, I have not yet found a favorite on mono vs. fluoro leaders yet. I switched over to fluoro years ago once it started coming out. But I’m now experimenting with normal mono and I can hardly tell a difference between the two in terms of performance. I’m in the process of building a system for testing their true abrasion resistance performance to see if one is better than the other in terms of keeping fish from chewing through the line. Will post results once the tests are done.
Thanks, Luke. I’ve read numerous reports over the years online and in fishing magazines from “experts” who swear by fluoro, not only because of superior abrasion resistance, but because it’s supposed to be invisible to fish, compared to mono which they say fish can see much better. I think tests have been done to support this view. With the clear water we have up here near Crystal River, I want to use the “most invisible” leader possible. However, just the slightest knick in the fluoro supposedly can be seen by fish, which is why I’ve been retying when that happens. If the reporting on this is wrong, and your testing shows that to be the case, I think it will be a major surprise.
Also, since mono floats and fluoro sinks, one or the other might be favored for certain presentations. Most “experts” seem to support using mono for topwater lures because of this , but I still prefer using flouro for my go-to topwater Ima Skimmer because, when jerked during retrieve, I can get the Skimmer to dive under water a bit, after which it pops up emulating a bait fish trying to escape.
It basically comes down to an argument about refraction vs. reflection. Fluoro is closer to the same density of water, so it’s refraction of light is less than traditional mono which isn’t quite as dense.
But with the many leaders (30 lb and under) for inshore anglers being so thin, some argue that the refraction of light is not much of a factor compared to the reflection of light off of the outer surface of the line.
Pretty interesting, Luke. I read pretty much everything written about inshore fishing, and this is a new one on me. I’ll really be interested in the results of your testing.
I really like your fishing videos and all of the free help. (Makes me feel guilty). I’m considering buying the video but I live in Al off Weeks Bay. I have tried all of your suggestions but I cant seem to find grass flats in my area. I cannot tell the difference between dark (deep) water and dark (grassy) water. We have some inshore reefs and oyster beds but I have not had much success fishing them. I catch sharks and catfish but I mostly use live bait. Before I put my money down, do you think your video will help me find the good fishing spots in my area? I will probably buy it anyway but AL isn’t like FL. I plan on retiring at year’s end and moving down there full time. It is much different from any place I have fished and I just cannot seem to get on the fish although I know people that can. The Bay area just looks like one big lake to me!
Thanks,
Thanks for the kinds words about all of our fishing tips that post for the public. We hold our absolute best tips for our paying customers, so I’m confident you’ll be glad that you upgraded to the next level given that you’ve shown interest in our basic content.
Yes, we have some detailed map reading tutorials in both the Inshore Slammer course as well as in our Insider Fishing Club platform. Here’s a link where you can learn a bit more about these two offerings: https://www.saltstrong.com/courses.
Why use mono as opposed to fluorocarbon? I have always been told to use fluorocarbon for leaders. Why should I use one over the other? Thanks, IraC
Fluoro is technically a specific type of monofilament line… it’s density is almost equal to that of water so it is supposedly is less visible in the water due to having less refraction of light.
There are many who believe that the refraction of light doesn’t matter all that much making fluoro no different than traditional mono (they claim that the reflection of light is more of an issue than the refraction… so far, I haven’t seen any documentation about fluoro having less reflective qualities than traditional mono.
I’m trying to find a way to test out the refraction vs. reflection aspects of line, so hopefully will have an answer that give hard proof one way or the other.
When using a lure how do we tie it i want to fish from the surf do i need a leader line to my main line I’m using a 20lb line
What knot would you use for mono to fluoro?
I use a 3 turn surgeon knot for that.
I used my old style of knot and was just out fishing, got a lot of weeds and stuff on the knot. Then I remembered your knot video, reviewed it and retied my knots and had no trouble. Such a little detail to get the tag end toward the hook and not back up the line and it makes all the difference. Thanks.
Glad to see that you’re finding success with the leader assembly that’s explained in this post. Fish On!
What knot would you recommend for fluoro to a jig with a gulp shrimp?
I highly recommend the Loop knot that is shown in this post for connecting a jig to a fluoro leader (the video is embedded above).
I’d like to know a good knot for dropper line
I fish for flounder all the time with 20 lb braid. But it breaks constantly on the hook set. I switched to 30 pound and have had no issues other than shorter casting. Am I the only one who has trouble with braid breaking on hooksets? I don’t use a leader and catch a lot of 20″ plus fish and a lot of slot redfish.
Sounds like your braid might be weak i use 20lb power pro and a 20lb inviso line by berkly leader and never have breakoffs in fact when i just used mono i had more breakoffs then ever but since i switched to braid about 14 years ago fish fear me ha ha if you have not changed your braid in a few years that might be a reason why your line might be weak braid does get old just not as fast as mono and the more time in the sun the faster it will weaken unless its new try changing it and if it is new maybe i would switch braid brands you can never go wrong with power pro great stuff and strong as hell good luck????
I guess i might try the fg knot although there was a knot i have been using for about 5 years now that i learned from a florida sportsman mag that has never failed me i make a loop in the leader then take the braid and put it through the loop then wrap the braid around the leader 10 times then holding that end bring the braid and wrap the leader and braid in the loop together 5 more times then pull it snug and trim the ends like i said i dont off hand know what its called but it has never failed me i also use a polomar to tie the lure on the leader in the florida sportsman mag they did there own knot tests and the polomar had a 95 percent strength rating now as far as a loop knot i never use it i use what is called a speed clip its not a swivel but is very strong and makes quik lure changes a breeze unlike having to retie if using the loop knot now for spinnerbaits jigs or any other soft lures i tie directly to the line using the polomar but its what works that works for me and your idea works for you thanks for the tip????
When you say “braid to mono’, would it also be true with ‘ braid to flouro’?
That FG knot looks really good. Could you also put a dab of crazy glue or nail polish on the knot when finished for a better finish?
Guys thanks for showing how it’s done. I´ve been practicing about 7-10 times at home and seems I’m getting it.
I´ve always used a swivel before my leader because everyone here uses this setup (Peru). Now I´m going without it.
Braid-FG-leader-clip-lure. what knot do you recommend for leader to clip? same as the video “braid to swivel knot”?
I recommend not using clips from most situations… just go straight from leader to lure with the loop knot shown in this post. If you don’t need lure action, then a snug knot will add strength (I like the Orvis knot for that).
I remember speaking with an old salt from the keys who schooled me about fishing lines, he told me that power pro, spiderwire and others are great lines. But for a person who fishes alot and needs to change out line more then once a year, those lines can get expensive. I change out my line at least twice a year and rely on Ande to do the job. I have yet to make the conversion to braid, so I cant say the shelf life on the line when fished alot. I also agree on the use of the loop knot. Some lures demand it, such as topwater and “walk the dog” lures.
If you use spinning reels and artificial lures, I highly recommend giving braid a shot… it’s all I use now after I finally made the switch because it casts further (cover more water with less effort), and it’s no-stretch and thin diameter allows me to feel every strike and even small bumps along the bottom extremely well.
And although it costs more per yard of line, it lasts much longer so the actual cost of using it is pretty much the same over time when you factor in the frequency of respooling.
In hindsight, I wish I would have made the switch sooner.
Ok so this set up is veeeery interesting. From talking to numerous fisherman, they seem to use a higher weight Braid and a smaller leader. For example a 20 lb braid attached to say a 12 lb fluoro or mono. Correct me if I am wrong, but you are recommending from your experience to go with 20 lb braid and even bigger mono for saltwater fishing? That is interesting! I grew up using all mono…and now I am so confused on what to use. I will be doing more fresh water fishing and occasional saltwater fishing. My rod’s line limit is 12 lb, and my reel for mono is 12LB/131yds , and for braid it is 30LB/140Yds. Can you please help me make a decision before I purchase any line? I am struggling between going with braid and leader vs just going with all mono. I haven’t ordered my reel yet but I was thinking of going with the 3000 kastking sharky III with the above line specs. Thank you for taking the time to read and respond. xoxo!
I have found the best results for most of my inshore fishing needs with going down to a 10 lb braid for the mainline to maximize casting distance and adding a 24″ to 30″ strand of 20 lb leader (or higher if targeting snook). The 10 lb line has plenty of power to handle big fish (I’ve landed ~50 lb tarpon on it), and it’s thinner diameter allows for better feel of strikes and longer casts (both of which result in more fish hooked).
But in certain instances that are explained in the Leader Size section of this post, I’ll sometimes bring a rod/reel with stronger lines.
Thank you, Luke for responding to my post/questions. That is also good for flounder, sea bass etc right?
What about for freshwater fishing, for bass using shaky head…what kind of setup do you recommend there? Thanks again!
Yes, this rig works great for flounder. Never tried it with seabass, but it should work assuming you’re using a bottom fishing rig.
As for freshwater fishing for bass, I use this same line system (except that I’ll often go down to a 15 lb leader) and have not had any issues. I know many people who use 30 lb + line to target bass, but I have no idea why they do it.
This looks alot easier to do than a uni to uni knot
Do you recommend mono or fluorocarbon for your 24″ inshore leaders when you connect to 10# braid for trout, puppy drum, small stripers, etc?
I have been using traditional mono lately, and I can’t tell a difference between it and the more expensive fluoro. So unless you’re fishing super-clear water, then I think it’s safe to go with normal mono.
Luke, thanks for being a great daily read of mine. There is so much content within y’alls site and its helped me understand fishing. I’m a brand new angler in the St. Petersburg, FL area with a 1 block walk to Vinnoy Marina, and couple more block drive or walk to CoffeePot Bayou (with clearly a million other fishing spots I could drive to but I do enjoy just being able to walk out the back door and be on the water without having to trek across Pinellas County). I don’t have a boat yet and most of my fishing is wading or standing on the beach, sea wall(s) or piers. I was recently gifted with three rods, two of which are exactly the same 7′ medium action spin rods, and a 9′ heavy action spin surf rod. The two smaller rods were both given to me spooled with 12# fluorocarbon straight to a clasp swivel and the 9′ surf rod is spooled with 20# mono with a weight and two alternating hooks at the end, non of the rigs currently have any leaders.
My goal is to get set up so that out of the 3 rigs I can choose one best suited for the area, go out and catch mainly Trout, Snook, Redfish and Flounder all off of the same rig, and then change out only my lure. I understand that with lure changing, leader material will need replacing as well.
My plan based off what you all present here at Salt Strong is to re-spool one 7’ rod with a 10# braid, with a 24” 25# mono leader tied to my lure of choice and work that as my main shallow flats/grassy/wade rod. I plan on spooling the other 7’ rod with a 25# braid with a 24” 50# mono leader for structure/inlets. The surf rod I’ve never used, but maybe I spool a 30# braid with a 60# mono leader? Could you give me any insight as to whether I’m heading in the right direction with my thoughts? I’d like to catch some fish!!
Also last question, if I was accomplish the above plan but then want to change out any lure and switch over to a top water plug and “walk the dog”, because its recommended to use a braid leader to assist in the “walking the dog action” should I be wanting to tie the lure with a heavy # braid to my braid main line or should I just rig it up straight to the main line? I’m sure the answer you have for this one is situational as well. Thank you for reading my novel and thank you for your help! SALT STRONG!
Hey Zach, the answers to your questions are dependent on the specific reels and rods that you’re using… for example, I always recommend using a mainline that is within the specs listed on the rod. So if that rod has a range of 10 lbs to 25 lbs, then it’s ok assuming that reel can handle both sized lines too.
I’m not sure where you saw that recommendation to use a braid leader for topwater, but it definitely wasn’t from us… I recommend using a mono leader for topwater because it’s less visible than braid and enables plenty of side to side action assuming that you use a loop knot.
Note: I rarely surf fish, so I wouldn’t be doing you justice by answering questions about your surf rod… but your idea from it sounds good to me assuming that you’re targeting big fish and the rod and reel are designed for line of that power rating.
Thanks for your response and clarification Luke.
I would like to join up but I am fearing hackers of info. I want to learn what you offer so please let me know the cost of the program. Thanks fellows.
Hey Pat, thanks for showing interest in joining the Insider Club! I’m sure that you’re going to absolutely love what you see when you join. The costs is just $97 per year for the annual plan or $11 per month for the monthly plan. Both are backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee policy so the risk is on us to deliver and we’re confident that we will given the feedback we’ve been receiving from members.
As for security, we use secure (SSL certified) pages throughout our entire site. And at least one of us tests out each order form with our own credit cards to make sure they work before we take them live, and none of us have had any issues with hackers.
We hope to see you in the Club soon.
Here’s a link to learn more about it: https://www.saltstrong.com/pricing/
Are you saying the FG is only for braid to fluoro?
The FG knot is only for braid to fluoro/mono… specifically best for connecting a weaker braid to a stronger mono/fluoro leader.
Hi Luke. Thanks for the post. As usual, excellent information that is straight to the point and well reasoned. You certainly must be cutting down the learning curve to success for a lot of anglers. I recently came across an article regarding a top Japanese angler and lure designer fishing in France for European sea bass. Lure fishing from a boat, he stated that he uses a fluorocarbon leader of 4/5 metres (approx. 12 to 16 feet) because braid makes a noise\vibrates when retrieved through the water unlike mono or fluorocarbon. He stated that this may put off wary fish on shorter leaders. On the day he out fished the combined total of all the other anglers. Happy to email the article to anyone who requests.
Thanks for making time to leave the helpful comment Paul! I’m curious to read that article. Please sent it my way when you get a chance (Luke@saltstrong.com).
Hi L uke. Article sent. Merry Christmas to all at Salt Strong and your families.
OK Luke. Email it to you later today.
Hi Luke ,
Lots of fantastic info here . I first met you when you were showing us tying the FG Knot wearing that red shirt which is my favorite by the way .. But then it disappeared unfortunately.. Bring it up at your next Corp meeting please . I realize that you southern boys use lighter colors to reflect heat and shun darker colors which absorb heat ..
Like I said earlier I’m an 85 year old veteran, (( it’s only a number)), bow deer hunter, ( just shot a doe..meat for the freezer), retired pro photographer, Master fly tyer, and due for a new knee Jan/Mar 2020 .. then watch out .. The members from up north must be hibernating..I never see much feedback but standby .. I have to get over the loss of my Golden Retriever and it is difficult..Hopefully next spring 2020 I’ll have my co pilot and best friend.
Anyway, this is me and your company is special. And Joe •• Religion •• It is a topic along with Politics that I shy away from .I respect your approach but it’s between me and the almighty.. My opinion only .
Thanks so much for making time to leave the nice comment Robert! I’m so sorry to learn about your Golden Retriever… such an awesome breed!
Enjoy the venison as well as the upcoming new knee and copilot. Please keep us posted to your adventures both on and off the water.
Thank you for your response, Luke.. It was nice of you to take the time .. Merry Christmas to you all and a Happy and prosperous 2020 .
Perhaps better as a sidebar discussion, did I miss this discussion Luke…”A leader is needed for saltwater fishing because it provides an angler with the ability to keep a big, strong, and often toothy fish from biting through the line near the hook/lure (the “business end”) while allowing the angler to have a much thinner line in the reel for maximizing casting distance and performance.”
I was expecting a comment at least on the abrasion resistance of leader being better than braid main line. At least that is the marketing claim.
I normally do not use leaders on my braid lines when inshore fishing. But decided to try it fishing live shrimp on a popping cork. I used 20lb fluorocarbon leader tied to 10 lb braid using an FG knot.
My testing left me with a sense that the leader hinders the swimming action of the shrimp. The shrimp are willingly to drag 10lb braid but are very sluggish appearing when dragging the 20lb fluoro. With braid, shrimp jump out of water when predators come around, not so with the fluoro. I presume the reason is line stiffness and diameter differences.
I was also left with the impression that the leader decreased sensitivity. With braid, I could feel the slightest ticks, but with leader I could not detect a bite until the popping cork disappeared under the surface. I retrieved an empty hook on countless casts when using a leader.
I also surf fish with long rods using a shock leader. I have numerous experiences retrieving my rigs only to discover the hook is missing. Whatever the fish, it had no problem chopping or sawing through 60 lb monofilament. Single strand wire was the only solution, but it seems to decrease the bite rate, but it does reduce the hook loss rate.
The article you present is an excellent review of using leaders when artificial bait fishing, but for me, the leader debate continues.
Hey Bob, thanks for making time to leave the comment. The first video in this post discusses the fact that a mono leader has much better abrasion resistance than braid, but I just realized that I did not specify that in text (will update that soon).
Yes, I agree that using a leader (vs. braid) will decrease a live bait’s ability to swim around naturally. That’s why it’s important to use as thin a line as possible that can handle the fish that you’re targeting.
As for the decreased sensitivity factor of a leader, I do not believe it makes much of a difference due to the fact that the stretch of a ~24-inch strand of line being so slight… Using a full spool of mono will definitely have a noticeable difference, but a short strand at the end of braid shouldn’t cause a noticeable loss of sensitivity. How long of a leader were you using when you saw the negative results with your live shrimp? And what pound test was it?
I find if I fish any lure (Spooks, paddletails, Gulp shrimp) for a couple or three trips and don’t use a swivel, my braid gets twisted and the twist invariably leads to what looks like a wind knot – but isn’t, since it’s due to twist. I’ve read advice to trail your line behind the boat for a while to eliminate the twist, but I tend to forget to do that, or at least don’t do it often enough. I also hear Luke when he says he doesn’t want the weight of the swivel dragging the line to the possibly nasty bottom. I can’t recall ever hearing the Salt Strong guys talk about line twist other than in relation to Silver minnows or spoons.
For about 6 months now, I’ve been using a very light-weight, 30 lb test swivel I found on Amazon and haven’t had any trouble with twisted line (or upper slot reds). Search for “Dr Fish Rolling Barrel Fishing Swivel.” As Luke suggests, I attach it to the 10 lb braid with a Uni knot and to the 20 lb (I use Vanish bought on a 250 yard spool) leader with an Orvis knot, and leave the leader short enough so I’m not casting the swivel through the guides.
I am curious to learn more about your line twist issues when using spooks or paddletails… those lures shouldn’t be twisting the line during the retrieve, so you the twists should only be happening while the lures are in flight during the cast or by the drag getting pulled out due to a fighting fish… both of which requires a lot for enough twists to cause a wind knot in most braid lines.
What braid line are you using (brand and strength)?
PowerPro braid, 10 lb. I like the yellow, too. I think it may well be coming from the casts; the Spooks tend to tumble quite a lot in the air. I also know enough not to reel into the drag …
The drag twisting that I was thinking about was referring to the fact that the line twists onto the spool when it’s pulled in by the spinning motion of the reel, and then it twists off when the line shoots off the spool during a cast… but when it gets pulled off the spool from a running fish pulling out drag, the line twists that came in while the line was put on the spool will not twist back out from getting pulled over the spool which will cause added twists in the line (reeling in when the drag is getting pulled out just just compounds the issue).
Well, fishing up here in St Augustine and back in the creeks, there is both considerably deeper water – a lot of banks going from 1 foot to 6 in a matter of a few feet – and darker water, so I don’t think that little swivel is going to cause either spooking problems or hanging up on the bottom issues. I’m looking forward to getting south at some point and fishing clear water where the tide only changes 3 feet sometime. Other than the swivel part, I agree with everything else you say here. I discovered the Orvis knot years ago trout fishing back in Pennsylvania – it also works well on the Surflon nylon coated stainless steel 7 strand wire I use for toothy critters.
Hey Guys, First off, a very Merry Christmas to you and yours; and a prosperous New Year.
Arthritis has set in on my hands and fingertips are really hard from working outside all the time.
I have a heck of a time trying to tie loop knots. Question is, would lure clips increase the action of the lure over just tying direct with a uni knot?
I can manipulate the clips and tie the single and double uni knots OK.
Thanks for the opportunity to be a part of Salt Strong.
Dennis
West Texas
Yes, the clips will help give the lures a bit more action, so they are worth a try if you are not able to tie the non-slip loop knot. But the con with metal clips is that they are something unnatural that fish may pick up on, so perhaps try it both ways for a bit to see if you can notice a difference one way or the other.
Could someone please put that comment button in another place as in my case, it continuously covers up text I am trying to read. Thanks, very much enjoy your news letters. I know that decreasing the text size would probably fix this, but I need it larger.
what are your thoughts on uni to uni knot to join mainline (Braid) to leader?
The uni to uni (aka double uni) is a very good knot because it can be used for pretty much any connection.
That’s actually what I used before I tested the FG knot and found that it was over 30% stronger… I thin made the switch to the FG and haven’t looked back.
I have enjoyed your videos very much. Thank you.
I’m a beginner and I’m not sure what weight my lead line should be. Also, I can’t find the pdf that you mention in one of your knot tying videos.
I’ve been using braid with swivel to mono for years. The videos got me off the swivels!! Happy Fisherman!!
So glad to see that you enjoyed this post!
hello all, glad to be on board! moving to north fort myers next week, finally able to partially retire, and cannot wait to fish. arthritis has taken its toll so watching the amazing videos on knots and leaders has been most informative but am quite anxious about just how well I will be able to tie my knots. are leaders that critical to tying lures and jigs? is there any pre-made alternatives? I even viewed videos on so called knot tying tools…please feel free to comment with ideas, suggestions and tips…much appreciated!
What about tying the 10 pound braid directly to the lure and removing one knot from the equation? Isn’t 10 lb braid least likely to break than 20 lb mono?