How to Tie the FG Knot (Fastest Method & Free Cheat Sheet PDF)
- By: Luke Simonds
- on
This post will show you the absolute fastest and easiest way to tie the “FG knot”, and we even have a free PDF guide for you to download too.
The FG knot is a relatively new braid to mono (or fluoro) knot that has proven to be stronger and thinner than all other braid to leader knots we’ve tested.
I have been a huge fan of the FG knot ever since it shocked me in my first braid to leader knot contest because it proved to be over 30% stronger than all of my prior favorite knots including:
- Double Uni
- Crazy Alberto
- Albright
- Bimini Twist with Bristol finish
And it also happens much thinner than all of the other braid to leader knots because the thicker leader line never doubles over like it does for traditional fishing knots.
The FG Knot Complaint
The most common complaint against the FG knot that I’ve heard is that it takes to long to tie…
And I’ll completely agree with that concern if it is being tied the traditional way by manually wrapping the braid around the mono.
However, there is a much faster and better way to tie the FG knot that allows it all to be completed in under 60 seconds (video proof below).
How To Tie The FG Knot [Quickly]
The absolute best and fastest way to tie the FG knot is to thread the leader onto the braid while the braid is under tension.
There are several ways to tie the FG with tension, and the first two versions shown below in this post are the fastest and easiest methods I’ve used so far: Teeth Tension & Pinky Tension.
Check out the videos below to see how to these methods work.
FG Knot: The Pinky Method
This pinky method has quickly become my favorite of all because it’s easy to do, and it doesn’t require holding the line in my teeth.
Free FG Knot Guide [PDF]
Click here to get a single-page cheat sheet PDF guide showing the core steps of the FG knot so you can always have it on hand if you need it… it’s 100% FREE!
FG Knot – Teeth Tension Method
Free FG Knot Guide [PDF]
And click here to see the results of all of our knot tests so you can make sure you’re using the best knot in every situation.
FG Knot Steps [Must Do All 7]
Here is a list describing the essential steps to tie the FG Knot:
Step 1: Wrap the line around your pinky or hold in your teeth
This will allow you to keep tension on the line while still having nine other fingers to tie the knot.
Step 2: Wrap the leader around the braid
Place the leader above the braid and then wrap it over and around the braid while keeping tension on the line.
After you’ve made a wrap over the braid, then make a wrap under the braid.
Keep alternating until you’ve made 16 wraps (I used to recommend 20-22, but 16 has worked very well for me).
After you’ve made 16 wraps, it should look like this:
Step 3: Tie two half-hitch knots to lock the coils in place
Hold the coils with your fingers to keep them in place and be sure that you’re getting both the leader and the mainline in these knots above the coils.
Step 4: Apply tension to the knot so that the braid digs into the leader
This knot is only effective if the braid digs into the leader, so once the coils are in place, wrap the braid around your hand a few times and pull on the knot to let it really sink in.
As you’re pulling on the lines, you should see that each of the coils are tightening down on the braid and staying evenly spaced out.
The first coil is the most important, so definitely be sure that that one has tightened up, otherwise you risk this knot coming undone, especially if you’re casting through guides.
Step 5: Cut the tag end of the leader off
You can cut the tag end off really close to the knot because once it’s locked in, it’s not going anywhere.
However, be sure that you cut the tag end off AFTER you’ve put tension on the knot.
When you put tension on the knot, the coils will typically slide up a bit, so you don’t want to cut the tag end off before that.
Step 6: Tie two more half-hitch knots
The purpose of this step is to create a smoother top of the knot so that the hard edge of the leader’s tag end doesn’t snag onto anything (floated debris, rod guides, etc.).
Step 7: Cut off the braid tag end and start fishing!
Free FG Knot Guide [PDF]
Click here to get a single page cheat sheet PDF guide showing these core steps of the FG knot so you can always have it on hand if you need it… it’s 100% FREE!
FG Knot Mistakes
If you follow the instructions listed out earlier in this post, you’ll be able to tie the FG knot like a pro.
However, I have noticed that there are three mistakes that commonly pop up that will cause this knot to fail.
To make sure you know what these mistakes are and how to avoid them, check out the video below.
Click here to see the best knots for every situation and download the Ultimate Knot Guide PDF
As long as you only use this knot when connecting braided line to stronger monofilament or fluorocarbon and don’t cast it through the guides, this knot will serve you well.
The FG Knot In Less Than 60 Seconds
As I mentioned above, the most common reason we’ve heard from those who watched the video above in YouTube was that it takes too long to tie.
But the tying was of course done slowly in order to explain the various steps.
So we thought it would be fun to make a video showing me tying the FG Knot without taking the time to walk through each step. And the result was an FG knot in less than 60 seconds… here is the video:
Note: this is done using the old way of putting tension on the line with your teeth… the way described above is even faster and easier!
Conclusion
Learning how to tie the FG knot in under 60 seconds is not difficult… it just requires knowing the quick method explained in this video.
And the most important part to remember is the tightening of the braid coils on the leader before cutting off the leader’s tag because that is what locks the coils in place for good.
Best of all, it will result in a knot that has tested out to be more than 20% stronger than many very popular knots for connecting a braided line to a mono/fluoro leader.
Note: The breaking test results change depending on line types used, so I highly recommend trying it out on your favorite gear and seeing if it has a higher breaking point than whichever knot you’re using to see if it’s worth the switch.
P.S. – If you think your angler friends or fishing networks would like to see this, please TAG them or SHARE this with them. It would mean a lot to me.
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STOP WASTING TIME ON THE WATER!
Do what the “SMART ANGLERS” are doing and join the Insider Club.
Here’s what you’ll receive today when you join:
- Weekly fishing reports and TRENDS revealing exactly where you should fish every trip
- Weekly “spot dissection” videos that walk you through all the best spots in your area
- Exclusive fishing tips from the PROS you can’t find anywhere else
- Everything you need to start catching fish more consistently (regardless if you fish out of a boat, kayak, or land).
This is the only way I have learned to tie this knot! It’s pretty easy once you get it! Thanks, Luke!
Can this work with fly line to leader connection? Or is the fly line material too thick to compress the coils like you suggest?
I don’t know if the FG will work on fly material or not… I wouldn’t use it out of fear that the outer core of the fly line could give out (the Nail knot is a popular knot for that connection).
Can’t remember where I saw it, but instead of your “pinky” you can wrap the mainline around the thumb nob of your handle to get the same effect. I leaves your other hand free.
Yes, that works too. The reason I don’t use that method is because it requires that the drag of the reel is loosened which ends up taking more time since it has to be adjusted back after the knot is done.
I was struggling with this knot and downloaded the PDF and noticed the directions for step 2 are misplaced.
Thanks for letting us know
Gray knot. However after tying dozens of these I still struggle with consistency. I’ll keep at it.
I return to thank you to Mr. Simonds for the following reasons:
I now can tie the FG knot in any situation in about 60 seconds. (Boat, Shore, Stream, Wind, Dark, Ice)
I use the FG for almost all Braid to Mono/Fluoro connections.
My leader is usually larger in diameter and usually a higher test than that of my main line.
I have used the FG on ultra light (<6#) to heavy (>60#) rigging. (Trout to Tuna)
I show fellow anglers your tips and always giving credit to Salt Strong!
I notice first wrap is most important with a little extra tension.
I keep wraps close together and they separate a little, as main digs in and leader stretches.
Step 3: Half-hitches are around both Main and Leader not just main. Tied loose at first then tightened after main line digs into leader.
Final half-hitches are all same direction.
Thank you again Luke and Salt Strong for everything!
So glad to see that you’re enjoying the FG knot. Thanks for sharing the helpful intel.
The FG knot is basically a Chinese finger puzzle like you got from the elementary school carnivals. The strength comes from the braid cinching around the fluorocarbon leader. Once cinched down properly, the leader cannot pull out of the braid. The only time this may not work is if you are using a very limp light mono that stretches too much under heavy tension. The limp mono can become much thinner inside the knot and cause it to pull out of the braid.
Different kind of blasphemy here: I mostly fish fresh water. My braid is light, but the braid is never the problem. I like to use 6 lb or 8 lb mono as a leader. And since I may well use 6′ or more of leader, I don’t want anything stiff; I generally just use mono that people would use to fill their spinning reels — Gamma, Trilene, whatever. And that mono seems way too limp to get the FG knot to work. For me anyway. Is it just me? Is it possible to get the FG knot to work with limp, thin mono??
In the meantime, I’ve pretty much given up the uni-to-uni knot — just too many breakoffs. Using the Albright knot instead, which seems to work pretty well (so far).
What lb test braid are you using when you connect to the 6 lb mono leader? If it’s 6 lb braid, it should work just fine. But if it’s 10 lb+, the braid will likely be too thick to appropriately dig into the leader line.
I’m usually using 8 lb. or 6 lb. Fireline. Which is a little thicker than equivalent test strength true braid.
Isn’t line diameter the real issue? I regularly use heavier pound test braid on lighter pound test mono or fluorocarbon leader. 30lb braid and 12lb fluro for example. My application is for fresh water bass fishing and since my leaders are usually 10-14 feet I cast through the guides every cast. In 2 years, I’ve only had one knot fail. I use the pinky method and 18 turns, and I make sure there is not slippage in the connection. I do check my knots and line regularly and re-tie when the leader needs to be replaced.
The proper cinch of the FG knot is the main issue… it’s just that there’s less room for error when using a stronger braid compared to the leader.
Given the power difference, I highly recommend going down to a 10 lb braid instead of the 30 because you’ll get noticeably better casting distance without losing pulling power.
Thanks Luke, I’m a relatively recent uni-uni convert and thanks to your helpful hints and videos, I successfully using the FG know for a few months. I absolutely love it, and my biggest regret was not converting sooner…
Since most of my fishing is saltwater fishing in southwest Florida, I’m using 10# braid (or higher) and 15# (or higher) mono or fluoro leaders, and the pinky method works perfectly!
I was recently freshwater fishing with a friend and told him about the FG knot. He has 6# braid and I was going to use a 10# fluoro leader, and tried unsuccessfully to tie the FG knot a few times. The fluoro didn’t seem stuff enough, so I reverted to uni-uni in this instance.
I’ve heard you mention you use 6# on your sight fishing rig, so was curious if you’ve had similar issues tying the FG knot on lower pound test (10# or less) leaders?
Thanks,.
Ken
I have been using the 6 and 7 lb braid with an FG knot to connect to 10 lb leader, and I haven’t had any issues. The leader I’m using is 10 lb Ande mono, so perhaps whichever fluoro line you were using has a stiffer exterior that doesn’t allow for the braid coils to dig in.
Thanks Luke, in saltwater I converted to Ande’s mono based on your testing. However in MN, I was simply using up my Seaguar 10# fluoro before I convert on freshwater as well. I’ll give mono a try in this application.
Awesome info. I am going to test this and let you know what happens.