Top 2 Lure Rigging Mistakes & How To Avoid Them
- By: Luke Simonds
- on
Don’t lose any more fish – it’s time to END these common lure rigging mistakes!!!
I see advanced anglers make this error all the time.
The techniques in the video cover any type of soft plastic lure.
Find out more below!!
Lure Rigging Mistakes [VIDEO]
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Featured Tackle:
Jigheads
Not many people get the first half of rigging lures wrong, it is once the plastic reaches the collar of the jighead that we run into an issue.
Once you get to that point before the barbs on the jighead, most people force the lure up and over the barbs.
It is nearly impossible to prevent your soft plastics from tearing as you take them on and off of hooks.
But, what we can control is WHERE the tear happens.
The key is to twist the lure 90 degrees BEFORE pushing it over the barbs.
Then, once it reaches the weight of the jighead, twist it back into place.
Now all of the plastic on top and below the hook is clean and undamaged.
Then to take it off of the hook, twist it 90 degrees and it should slide right off.
With this one little trick, you’ll catch way more fish using just one lure than ever before.
Weedless Jigheads
The Hoss Weedless Jighead is quickly becoming a bestseller and it’s my favorite hook for nearshore reef fishing.
It is a bigger worm hook and should be treated as such when rigging.
A common misconception of weedless jigheads is that the weight should swing back and forth.
The truth is, you’ll catch more fish if that weight is fixed to the head of the lure.
More action is not necessarily natural action.
Instead, you want to slide the hook about 3/4 of an inch into the lure and out through the top.
Slide the lure onto the hook as normal but once you pass the collar in the hook, push the lure up against the weight.
The head of the jighead will stay fixed and appear more natural.
This setup will skip much better beneath docks and around mangroves.
Not to mention, you won’t tear through nearly as many soft plastics with this stronger rigging technique.
If you have any questions, please drop them down below!!
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Awesome rigging tips, thank you.
My question is, how do you know what size poundage to use for your leaders? Also, how long should your leader be?
Great info Luke thanks.
Helpful.
Thanks for the rigging tips. I have been making that mistake
Great information
Luke, If I am not mistaken, Salt Strong has the Hoss football jigs made specifically for SS. When making the hoss football jig, if you want the head to be immobilized why not just extend the length of the hook shank ahead of the worm bend behind the hook eye, then put the lead head right on the hook shank itself? Make the distances similar to the current hoss football jig so you have plenty of plastic ahead of the bend, but this would eliminate the floppy lead head. You could just tie to the hook eye instead of the floppy lead weight.
There are 2 reasons for why this design was chosen: 1) there is an advantage of the swinging head when a fish is hooked… the flexibility of the jighead decreases the odds of the hook getting torqued out, and 2) the cost of these jigheads would be much higher if we had to create an entirely new set of custom hooks with long shanks.
Excellent advice. Thank you.
Thanks for making time to post the nice comment Jerry!
Great tip. Thanks.
Thanks Gregory!
Great video and I have made that mistake on the football jig heads. Always learning!
Thanks Brandon!